Master or Slave

It turns out I only have one IDE connector on this motherboard and a bunch of
sata connectors. Right now I want to get this PC up and running so I'm gonig
to use the old hard drive that I was using on my Dell 8300. This drive is a
Seagate Baracuda 7200.7 80 GB hard drive.
Hell with trying to push it. I'm using 2 optical drives. One as the master
and the other as a slave. The master will be the burner and the slave to play
games.
The hard drive is going to be a sata. I've never used one before. I better
follow the motherboard manual and learn it now.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1

DL
Sun Jun 22 00:54:04 PDT 2008

If the old hd contains the o/s from Dell then probably you wont be able to
use this installation on your new PC.
Obtain the raid drivers from the mobo site, they usually have a make floppy
download, copy to floppy
Connect sata, edit the bios for sata boot, according to mobo manual
Boot up with winxp cd, use the F6 option early in the installation process
to install third party drivers from floppy - continue with installation - as
this is a clean install all files on the sata hd will be destroyed.


"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:56D2A33E-9AE8-404A-8DD6-ED86E81CEA8F@microsoft.com...
> It turns out I only have one IDE connector on this motherboard and a bunch
> of
> sata connectors. Right now I want to get this PC up and running so I'm
> gonig
> to use the old hard drive that I was using on my Dell 8300. This drive is
> a
> Seagate Baracuda 7200.7 80 GB hard drive.
> Hell with trying to push it. I'm using 2 optical drives. One as the master
> and the other as a slave. The master will be the burner and the slave to
> play
> games.
> The hard drive is going to be a sata. I've never used one before. I better
> follow the motherboard manual and learn it now.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> --
> attilathehun1

Bob
Sun Jun 22 07:04:39 PDT 2008


You will probably need to perform a "repair" installation of XP, due to
hardware changes, and especially to use the F6 option of the XP installer to
feed new SATA drivers to XP. Otherwise, XP will probably not even see this
hard drive. These drivers must be on a floppy, not on a CD. The drivers
come from the motherboard maker, not the hard drive maker.

In general the copy of XP CD (if any) that came with the Dell will probably
not support a repair install. Further, it probably will not support a clean
install, except on that same model of Dell. This is one of the "features"
of OEM-type PCs with XP (and Vista). The operating system is not
tranaferrable the way it might have been under win98.

Thus, you will probably need to purchase a new "retail" XP CD to have any
hope of swaping the hard dirve into new hardware.

If you purchase only an OEM CD, then you will be able to do a clean install
(i.e., format first, lose all data, then install XP).

Note that even with an retail CD the repair installation may fail, and then
you will be left with no option except a clean install.

Thus, BACKUP all personal data off of the hard drive BEFORE attempting any
of this. Ditto for any programs you purchased via download; save their
installer and any email with license key, unlock code, etc.

Then, read the motherboard manual, twice, or more. Pay particular attention
to any words about a "raid" controller for SATA. In some cases such a
controller will be smart enough to know that a single internal hard drive
should be treated as just a plain disk. In other cases you may need to
"build" a "raid array" containing just one disk. In the latter case, look
for some comnbination of keys (e.g., CTRL-F) to enter the controller setup.
This usually appears towards ther end of the BIOS checks. Note also that
the controller setup may be separate form the BIOS setup. It is on my ASUS
motherboard.

As for testing wther the motherboard can "see" the hard drive, first watch
the BIOS checks. Second, try booting from a diagnostic CD form the hard
drive maker. For Seagate, try their SeaTools CD (image you burn to CD,
which is bootable). It can "see" and test hard drives, no matter what their
format, or even if no format, if they are connnected properly and recognized
by the BIOS. (I they are not, then XP won't work either.) Caution: Avoid
any testing option that sounds like "low level format" or even just plain
format.

http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/support/downloads/seatools


"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:56D2A33E-9AE8-404A-8DD6-ED86E81CEA8F@microsoft.com...
> It turns out I only have one IDE connector on this motherboard and a bunch
> of
> sata connectors. Right now I want to get this PC up and running so I'm
> gonig
> to use the old hard drive that I was using on my Dell 8300. This drive is
> a
> Seagate Baracuda 7200.7 80 GB hard drive.
> Hell with trying to push it. I'm using 2 optical drives. One as the master
> and the other as a slave. The master will be the burner and the slave to
> play
> games.
> The hard drive is going to be a sata. I've never used one before. I better
> follow the motherboard manual and learn it now.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> --
> attilathehun1

attilathehun1
Sun Jun 22 11:11:00 PDT 2008

OK, forget the Dell, that's over. I figure I was doing an upgrade to my Dell
8300 and it turns out everything is new except the optical DVD drive and the
couple of expansion cards. A new CPU, a new mobo, a new SATA hard drive; a
SAMSUNG Spinpoint SP1614C. So, really it's a whole new PC.
I figured this is threading water using my old hard drive and since there
is only one IDE connector on this mobo, might as well go with the flow. There
are 4 SATA connectors.
Which brings me to my next question about the hardware.
There are 3 yellow SATA110/1/2/3/4/5 connectors and 1 purple GSATA110/1
connector. Which one do I want to use for this new SAMSUNG Spinpoint?
Another thing, now don't get upset or laugh, this is new to me, is the
jumper. There isn't a jumper provided. There are the jumper prongs, but no
jumper came with the device or it's been so long that this hard drive has
been sitting in my closet, boxed up, that I don't remember if a jumper came
with it.
I read your reply about configuring the hard drive. I've read somewhat
about BIOS and the SATA and it said something about disabling if you don't
want RAID. Or is that an option?
I just want to get this PC up and running ASAP. I can go back later and
configure RAID later, can't I?
Ok, lets try and get a response here, and I'll send another reply to a PC
tech and hope he responds soon.
I have to get out to Orange County, Fountain Valley soon, and won't be back
until late tonight. I need this PC up and running by the time the stock
market opens tomorrow morning.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks, attilathehun1

--
attilathehun1


"Bob Harris" wrote:

> You will probably need to perform a "repair" installation of XP, due to
> hardware changes, and especially to use the F6 option of the XP installer to
> feed new SATA drivers to XP. Otherwise, XP will probably not even see this
> hard drive. These drivers must be on a floppy, not on a CD. The drivers
> come from the motherboard maker, not the hard drive maker.
>
> In general the copy of XP CD (if any) that came with the Dell will probably
> not support a repair install. Further, it probably will not support a clean
> install, except on that same model of Dell. This is one of the "features"
> of OEM-type PCs with XP (and Vista). The operating system is not
> tranaferrable the way it might have been under win98.
>
> Thus, you will probably need to purchase a new "retail" XP CD to have any
> hope of swaping the hard dirve into new hardware.
>
> If you purchase only an OEM CD, then you will be able to do a clean install
> (i.e., format first, lose all data, then install XP).
>
> Note that even with an retail CD the repair installation may fail, and then
> you will be left with no option except a clean install.
>
> Thus, BACKUP all personal data off of the hard drive BEFORE attempting any
> of this. Ditto for any programs you purchased via download; save their
> installer and any email with license key, unlock code, etc.
>
> Then, read the motherboard manual, twice, or more. Pay particular attention
> to any words about a "raid" controller for SATA. In some cases such a
> controller will be smart enough to know that a single internal hard drive
> should be treated as just a plain disk. In other cases you may need to
> "build" a "raid array" containing just one disk. In the latter case, look
> for some comnbination of keys (e.g., CTRL-F) to enter the controller setup.
> This usually appears towards ther end of the BIOS checks. Note also that
> the controller setup may be separate form the BIOS setup. It is on my ASUS
> motherboard.
>
> As for testing wther the motherboard can "see" the hard drive, first watch
> the BIOS checks. Second, try booting from a diagnostic CD form the hard
> drive maker. For Seagate, try their SeaTools CD (image you burn to CD,
> which is bootable). It can "see" and test hard drives, no matter what their
> format, or even if no format, if they are connnected properly and recognized
> by the BIOS. (I they are not, then XP won't work either.) Caution: Avoid
> any testing option that sounds like "low level format" or even just plain
> format.
>
> http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/support/downloads/seatools
>
>
> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
> news:56D2A33E-9AE8-404A-8DD6-ED86E81CEA8F@microsoft.com...
> > It turns out I only have one IDE connector on this motherboard and a bunch
> > of
> > sata connectors. Right now I want to get this PC up and running so I'm
> > gonig
> > to use the old hard drive that I was using on my Dell 8300. This drive is
> > a
> > Seagate Baracuda 7200.7 80 GB hard drive.
> > Hell with trying to push it. I'm using 2 optical drives. One as the master
> > and the other as a slave. The master will be the burner and the slave to
> > play
> > games.
> > The hard drive is going to be a sata. I've never used one before. I better
> > follow the motherboard manual and learn it now.
> > Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> > Thanks, attilathehun1
> > --
> > attilathehun1
>
>
>

peter
Sun Jun 22 16:22:20 PDT 2008

You want to use Sata110/1.........and Jumpers are a thing of the past.
Some of the newer SATA 2 drives might have a jumper to make it compatible
with SATA1 controllers..
You want to be sure that you have the right SATA drivers on a Floppy as
during the XP install thatâ??s the only place
XP will look for them.
Seeing as you did not name the Mobo we cant tell you which driver is
right.or wether you have the original SATA1 or SATA 2
Did your new mobo not come with a manual??? its amazing the information and
help thatâ??s actually printed in some of them..
On my Abit board it was an option to turn on RAID...the default was Off..

peter

--
DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me
offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it.
If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to
me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate... ;-)


"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:F7A953AA-644B-464D-A59C-EC38E76B3214@microsoft.com...
> OK, forget the Dell, that's over. I figure I was doing an upgrade to my
> Dell
> 8300 and it turns out everything is new except the optical DVD drive and
> the
> couple of expansion cards. A new CPU, a new mobo, a new SATA hard drive; a
> SAMSUNG Spinpoint SP1614C. So, really it's a whole new PC.
> I figured this is threading water using my old hard drive and since there
> is only one IDE connector on this mobo, might as well go with the flow.
> There
> are 4 SATA connectors.
> Which brings me to my next question about the hardware.
> There are 3 yellow SATA110/1/2/3/4/5 connectors and 1 purple GSATA110/1
> connector. Which one do I want to use for this new SAMSUNG Spinpoint?
> Another thing, now don't get upset or laugh, this is new to me, is the
> jumper. There isn't a jumper provided. There are the jumper prongs, but no
> jumper came with the device or it's been so long that this hard drive has
> been sitting in my closet, boxed up, that I don't remember if a jumper
> came
> with it.
> I read your reply about configuring the hard drive. I've read somewhat
> about BIOS and the SATA and it said something about disabling if you don't
> want RAID. Or is that an option?
> I just want to get this PC up and running ASAP. I can go back later and
> configure RAID later, can't I?
> Ok, lets try and get a response here, and I'll send another reply to a PC
> tech and hope he responds soon.
> I have to get out to Orange County, Fountain Valley soon, and won't be
> back
> until late tonight. I need this PC up and running by the time the stock
> market opens tomorrow morning.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated
> Thanks,
> attilathehun1
>
> --
> attilathehun1
>
>
> "Bob Harris" wrote:
>
>> You will probably need to perform a "repair" installation of XP, due to
>> hardware changes, and especially to use the F6 option of the XP installer
>> to
>> feed new SATA drivers to XP. Otherwise, XP will probably not even see
>> this
>> hard drive. These drivers must be on a floppy, not on a CD. The drivers
>> come from the motherboard maker, not the hard drive maker.
>>
>> In general the copy of XP CD (if any) that came with the Dell will
>> probably
>> not support a repair install. Further, it probably will not support a
>> clean
>> install, except on that same model of Dell. This is one of the
>> "features"
>> of OEM-type PCs with XP (and Vista). The operating system is not
>> tranaferrable the way it might have been under win98.
>>
>> Thus, you will probably need to purchase a new "retail" XP CD to have any
>> hope of swaping the hard dirve into new hardware.
>>
>> If you purchase only an OEM CD, then you will be able to do a clean
>> install
>> (i.e., format first, lose all data, then install XP).
>>
>> Note that even with an retail CD the repair installation may fail, and
>> then
>> you will be left with no option except a clean install.
>>
>> Thus, BACKUP all personal data off of the hard drive BEFORE attempting
>> any
>> of this. Ditto for any programs you purchased via download; save their
>> installer and any email with license key, unlock code, etc.
>>
>> Then, read the motherboard manual, twice, or more. Pay particular
>> attention
>> to any words about a "raid" controller for SATA. In some cases such a
>> controller will be smart enough to know that a single internal hard drive
>> should be treated as just a plain disk. In other cases you may need to
>> "build" a "raid array" containing just one disk. In the latter case,
>> look
>> for some comnbination of keys (e.g., CTRL-F) to enter the controller
>> setup.
>> This usually appears towards ther end of the BIOS checks. Note also that
>> the controller setup may be separate form the BIOS setup. It is on my
>> ASUS
>> motherboard.
>>
>> As for testing wther the motherboard can "see" the hard drive, first
>> watch
>> the BIOS checks. Second, try booting from a diagnostic CD form the hard
>> drive maker. For Seagate, try their SeaTools CD (image you burn to CD,
>> which is bootable). It can "see" and test hard drives, no matter what
>> their
>> format, or even if no format, if they are connnected properly and
>> recognized
>> by the BIOS. (I they are not, then XP won't work either.) Caution:
>> Avoid
>> any testing option that sounds like "low level format" or even just plain
>> format.
>>
>> http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/support/downloads/seatools
>>
>>
>> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in
>> message
>> news:56D2A33E-9AE8-404A-8DD6-ED86E81CEA8F@microsoft.com...
>> > It turns out I only have one IDE connector on this motherboard and a
>> > bunch
>> > of
>> > sata connectors. Right now I want to get this PC up and running so I'm
>> > gonig
>> > to use the old hard drive that I was using on my Dell 8300. This drive
>> > is
>> > a
>> > Seagate Baracuda 7200.7 80 GB hard drive.
>> > Hell with trying to push it. I'm using 2 optical drives. One as the
>> > master
>> > and the other as a slave. The master will be the burner and the slave
>> > to
>> > play
>> > games.
>> > The hard drive is going to be a sata. I've never used one before. I
>> > better
>> > follow the motherboard manual and learn it now.
>> > Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>> > Thanks, attilathehun1
>> > --
>> > attilathehun1
>>
>>
>>

attilathehun1
Sun Jun 22 16:49:02 PDT 2008

This is a brand new drive, it's a SATA SAMSUNG Spinpoint SP1614C, but it
turns out it doesn't matter what kinda drive it is. I just brought the PC
DIY that I'm building to a PC store because the video card got stuck into 3
slots instead of the two slots it's supposed to take up. The PC Club tech
told me that your motherboard was no good. He used a motherboard tester and
everything else tested ok, but the mobo was dead. He said anywhere from 15%
to 20% of mobos are no good shipped out of the factory.
Ok, all this for not. I'm reinstalling the old drive into the Dell 8300.
I'm sending the motherboard back to newegg.com. I've had it almost a month
now.
Alright thanks for all the input.
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1


"DL" wrote:

> If the old hd contains the o/s from Dell then probably you wont be able to
> use this installation on your new PC.
> Obtain the raid drivers from the mobo site, they usually have a make floppy
> download, copy to floppy
> Connect sata, edit the bios for sata boot, according to mobo manual
> Boot up with winxp cd, use the F6 option early in the installation process
> to install third party drivers from floppy - continue with installation - as
> this is a clean install all files on the sata hd will be destroyed.
>
>
> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
> news:56D2A33E-9AE8-404A-8DD6-ED86E81CEA8F@microsoft.com...
> > It turns out I only have one IDE connector on this motherboard and a bunch
> > of
> > sata connectors. Right now I want to get this PC up and running so I'm
> > gonig
> > to use the old hard drive that I was using on my Dell 8300. This drive is
> > a
> > Seagate Baracuda 7200.7 80 GB hard drive.
> > Hell with trying to push it. I'm using 2 optical drives. One as the master
> > and the other as a slave. The master will be the burner and the slave to
> > play
> > games.
> > The hard drive is going to be a sata. I've never used one before. I better
> > follow the motherboard manual and learn it now.
> > Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> > Thanks, attilathehun1
> > --
> > attilathehun1
>
>
>

attilathehun1
Sun Jun 22 23:03:00 PDT 2008

Ok, that's what my question was if I had to configure something or just let
the Windows XP Pro operating system recognize the drive during the initial
installation. I was told today that I didn't have to do anything and it would
recognize it during installation by a PC tech at PC Club.
When I was at the last installation of firing up the PC to see if it would
work, a snag happened. The video card is a monster, and it takes up two
slots, well not 2 PCI slots, but 2 slots at the backplate. You have to take
out 2 rear expansion slot covers during installation. Well, the damn card got
stuck between 3 slots, don't ask me how, but it happened. I was so pissed off
by that time, I just opened the trunk and tossed it in and drove to the PC
Club. For $29.95 he unstuck the video card and installed it. I offered $20
bucks in cash and he said ok, but I forgot my ATM card, so I was out of luck
there. I did learn how to do it, he unscrewed the backplate holder, and then
unstuck the card. So for about $30 bucks I learned how to get a card unstuck.
One thing though, the PC didn't fire up. He put a motherboard tester onto P1
of the power supply and it turns out the motherboard was dead.
Now I've said to my friend and family members that if you bring your PC
into a PC store 9 out of 10 times the tech will say you need a mobo. That's
simple, I go to someone's house or business and tell them after a quick
check that they need a motherboard. Great, how easy. Well I was in no
position to argue and now I'm about to call newegg.com and get an RMA number
or some wtf number to return this mobo. The other tech at PC Club said almost
20 % of motherboards coming out of the factory don't work. I figure it's
about 10% maybe and that's pushing it.
Ok, here goes; Gigabyte S-Series model # GA-EP35C-DS3R. This mobo has one
IDE connector and 4 SATA connectors, 3 yellows and 1 purple. Now I realize
what the setting on the jumper on the hard drives when it says master with a
non ATA-compatible slave. Probably it has something to do with SATA and then
a non-SATA. That's just a question that's been bugging me for 2 or 3 years
everytime I see it on a hard drive about the jumper setting.
Ok, lets move on. I'm fixing up my old Dell 8300 again and plugging
everything back into it. I was upgrading my Dell 8300 and now this mobo
problem. I figure it probably is the problem because the PC Club tech plugged
his tester into motherboard power supply connector and took readings. The CPU
chip was stuck onto the heatsink. I had to go out and buy a hair dryer for 10
bucks and use it on high settings hot for 20 seoncds. I first through the
heatsink with attached chip into the freezer, then an hour later took it out
and 20 minutes later used the hair dryer and a straight edge screwdriver and
the chip came right off. Great what a little applied heat will do.
I want to know if I should use arctic silver or thermal paste. l cleaned
off both pieces and now I'm ready to apply the paste. It's a stock 8300 Dell.
I haven't changed the chip or heatsink. In fact, this was the first time I
ever took the heatsink off.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1


"peter" wrote:

> You want to use Sata110/1.........and Jumpers are a thing of the past.
> Some of the newer SATA 2 drives might have a jumper to make it compatible
> with SATA1 controllers..
> You want to be sure that you have the right SATA drivers on a Floppy as
> during the XP install thatâ??s the only place
> XP will look for them.
> Seeing as you did not name the Mobo we cant tell you which driver is
> right.or wether you have the original SATA1 or SATA 2
> Did your new mobo not come with a manual??? its amazing the information and
> help thatâ??s actually printed in some of them..
> On my Abit board it was an option to turn on RAID...the default was Off..
>
> peter
>
> --
> DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me
> offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it.
> If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to
> me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate... ;-)
>
>
> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
> news:F7A953AA-644B-464D-A59C-EC38E76B3214@microsoft.com...
> > OK, forget the Dell, that's over. I figure I was doing an upgrade to my
> > Dell
> > 8300 and it turns out everything is new except the optical DVD drive and
> > the
> > couple of expansion cards. A new CPU, a new mobo, a new SATA hard drive; a
> > SAMSUNG Spinpoint SP1614C. So, really it's a whole new PC.
> > I figured this is threading water using my old hard drive and since there
> > is only one IDE connector on this mobo, might as well go with the flow.
> > There
> > are 4 SATA connectors.
> > Which brings me to my next question about the hardware.
> > There are 3 yellow SATA110/1/2/3/4/5 connectors and 1 purple GSATA110/1
> > connector. Which one do I want to use for this new SAMSUNG Spinpoint?
> > Another thing, now don't get upset or laugh, this is new to me, is the
> > jumper. There isn't a jumper provided. There are the jumper prongs, but no
> > jumper came with the device or it's been so long that this hard drive has
> > been sitting in my closet, boxed up, that I don't remember if a jumper
> > came
> > with it.
> > I read your reply about configuring the hard drive. I've read somewhat
> > about BIOS and the SATA and it said something about disabling if you don't
> > want RAID. Or is that an option?
> > I just want to get this PC up and running ASAP. I can go back later and
> > configure RAID later, can't I?
> > Ok, lets try and get a response here, and I'll send another reply to a PC
> > tech and hope he responds soon.
> > I have to get out to Orange County, Fountain Valley soon, and won't be
> > back
> > until late tonight. I need this PC up and running by the time the stock
> > market opens tomorrow morning.
> > Any help would be greatly appreciated
> > Thanks,
> > attilathehun1
> >
> > --
> > attilathehun1
> >
> >
> > "Bob Harris" wrote:
> >
> >> You will probably need to perform a "repair" installation of XP, due to
> >> hardware changes, and especially to use the F6 option of the XP installer
> >> to
> >> feed new SATA drivers to XP. Otherwise, XP will probably not even see
> >> this
> >> hard drive. These drivers must be on a floppy, not on a CD. The drivers
> >> come from the motherboard maker, not the hard drive maker.
> >>
> >> In general the copy of XP CD (if any) that came with the Dell will
> >> probably
> >> not support a repair install. Further, it probably will not support a
> >> clean
> >> install, except on that same model of Dell. This is one of the
> >> "features"
> >> of OEM-type PCs with XP (and Vista). The operating system is not
> >> tranaferrable the way it might have been under win98.
> >>
> >> Thus, you will probably need to purchase a new "retail" XP CD to have any
> >> hope of swaping the hard dirve into new hardware.
> >>
> >> If you purchase only an OEM CD, then you will be able to do a clean
> >> install
> >> (i.e., format first, lose all data, then install XP).
> >>
> >> Note that even with an retail CD the repair installation may fail, and
> >> then
> >> you will be left with no option except a clean install.
> >>
> >> Thus, BACKUP all personal data off of the hard drive BEFORE attempting
> >> any
> >> of this. Ditto for any programs you purchased via download; save their
> >> installer and any email with license key, unlock code, etc.
> >>
> >> Then, read the motherboard manual, twice, or more. Pay particular
> >> attention
> >> to any words about a "raid" controller for SATA. In some cases such a
> >> controller will be smart enough to know that a single internal hard drive
> >> should be treated as just a plain disk. In other cases you may need to
> >> "build" a "raid array" containing just one disk. In the latter case,
> >> look
> >> for some comnbination of keys (e.g., CTRL-F) to enter the controller
> >> setup.
> >> This usually appears towards ther end of the BIOS checks. Note also that
> >> the controller setup may be separate form the BIOS setup. It is on my
> >> ASUS
> >> motherboard.
> >>
> >> As for testing wther the motherboard can "see" the hard drive, first
> >> watch
> >> the BIOS checks. Second, try booting from a diagnostic CD form the hard
> >> drive maker. For Seagate, try their SeaTools CD (image you burn to CD,
> >> which is bootable). It can "see" and test hard drives, no matter what
> >> their
> >> format, or even if no format, if they are connnected properly and
> >> recognized
> >> by the BIOS. (I they are not, then XP won't work either.) Caution:
> >> Avoid
> >> any testing option that sounds like "low level format" or even just plain
> >> format.
> >>
> >> http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/support/downloads/seatools
> >>
> >>
> >> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in
> >> message
> >> news:56D2A33E-9AE8-404A-8DD6-ED86E81CEA8F@microsoft.com...
> >> > It turns out I only have one IDE connector on this motherboard and a
> >> > bunch
> >> > of
> >> > sata connectors. Right now I want to get this PC up and running so I'm
> >> > gonig
> >> > to use the old hard drive that I was using on my Dell 8300. This drive
> >> > is
> >> > a
> >> > Seagate Baracuda 7200.7 80 GB hard drive.
> >> > Hell with trying to push it. I'm using 2 optical drives. One as the
> >> > master
> >> > and the other as a slave. The master will be the burner and the slave
> >> > to
> >> > play
> >> > games.
> >> > The hard drive is going to be a sata. I've never used one before. I
> >> > better
> >> > follow the motherboard manual and learn it now.
> >> > Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> >> > Thanks, attilathehun1
> >> > --
> >> > attilathehun1
> >>
> >>
> >>

Paul
Mon Jun 23 05:17:00 PDT 2008

attilathehun1 wrote:
> Ok, that's what my question was if I had to configure something or just let
> the Windows XP Pro operating system recognize the drive during the initial
> installation. I was told today that I didn't have to do anything and it would
> recognize it during installation by a PC tech at PC Club.
> When I was at the last installation of firing up the PC to see if it would
> work, a snag happened. The video card is a monster, and it takes up two
> slots, well not 2 PCI slots, but 2 slots at the backplate. You have to take
> out 2 rear expansion slot covers during installation. Well, the damn card got
> stuck between 3 slots, don't ask me how, but it happened. I was so pissed off
> by that time, I just opened the trunk and tossed it in and drove to the PC
> Club. For $29.95 he unstuck the video card and installed it. I offered $20
> bucks in cash and he said ok, but I forgot my ATM card, so I was out of luck
> there. I did learn how to do it, he unscrewed the backplate holder, and then
> unstuck the card. So for about $30 bucks I learned how to get a card unstuck.
> One thing though, the PC didn't fire up. He put a motherboard tester onto P1
> of the power supply and it turns out the motherboard was dead.
> Now I've said to my friend and family members that if you bring your PC
> into a PC store 9 out of 10 times the tech will say you need a mobo. That's
> simple, I go to someone's house or business and tell them after a quick
> check that they need a motherboard. Great, how easy. Well I was in no
> position to argue and now I'm about to call newegg.com and get an RMA number
> or some wtf number to return this mobo. The other tech at PC Club said almost
> 20 % of motherboards coming out of the factory don't work. I figure it's
> about 10% maybe and that's pushing it.
> Ok, here goes; Gigabyte S-Series model # GA-EP35C-DS3R. This mobo has one
> IDE connector and 4 SATA connectors, 3 yellows and 1 purple. Now I realize
> what the setting on the jumper on the hard drives when it says master with a
> non ATA-compatible slave. Probably it has something to do with SATA and then
> a non-SATA. That's just a question that's been bugging me for 2 or 3 years
> everytime I see it on a hard drive about the jumper setting.
> Ok, lets move on. I'm fixing up my old Dell 8300 again and plugging
> everything back into it. I was upgrading my Dell 8300 and now this mobo
> problem. I figure it probably is the problem because the PC Club tech plugged
> his tester into motherboard power supply connector and took readings. The CPU
> chip was stuck onto the heatsink. I had to go out and buy a hair dryer for 10
> bucks and use it on high settings hot for 20 seoncds. I first through the
> heatsink with attached chip into the freezer, then an hour later took it out
> and 20 minutes later used the hair dryer and a straight edge screwdriver and
> the chip came right off. Great what a little applied heat will do.
> I want to know if I should use arctic silver or thermal paste. l cleaned
> off both pieces and now I'm ready to apply the paste. It's a stock 8300 Dell.
> I haven't changed the chip or heatsink. In fact, this was the first time I
> ever took the heatsink off.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1

Arctic Silver is a brand of thermal paste. What counts is using some kind
of thermal paste, as a thermal paste is a better conductor of heat, than a
thin layer of air would be. The thermal paste is there to displace air and
push the air out of the way, when the heatsink is compressed into it. An
"Oreo cookie" consisting of metal-paste-metal works better than
metal-air-metal.

I'm not familiar with PC Club and just exactly what a motherboard tester
they would be using. With a completely empty motherboard, all you can test
is that pressing the front Power button, causes the power supply to start.
You need the components plugged in (processor, memory, video card and so
on), to do a more thorough test. From your description, it is hard to say
how the technician reached that conclusion.

The defectivity rate of motherboards should not be 20%. Imagine if a company
makes 5 million motherboards per month - they'd have 1 million coming back
every month. Think how many humans it would take to handle that.

Paul

attilathehun1
Wed Jun 25 19:01:01 PDT 2008

Yeah your right, 5 million customers and 1 million coming back. I'd say 5% is
pushing it. One in twenty, ok maybe a bit more. Ten percent! No, I think 5%
is right. Ok, enough of this betting or gambing on the % of mobos that aren't
good coming out of the factory. I'd say 50% of the time or more you bring
your PC to a PC tech store the PC employee will say it's the mobo. That's a
for sure. Like I said, how easy. The washing machine man came to see our
machine when it was on the blink and even he said it was the mobo on the
washing machine.
Ok, I just ordered DDR 333 RAM, a 512 stick for the Elitegroup mobo. I
bought this mobo from newegg.com about 45 days ago, and I'm just now getting
it going. I bought it because they gave a free 512 Kingston DDR 400 RAM stick
as a throw-in. Acutally, I bought the RAM stick and the mobo was thrown in,
that's the way I'm looking at it. Also, a heatsink that will fit this mobo.
This motherboard is something of an alien. I took off the heatsink bracket,
it required motherboard removal because of the bottom-plate, and it only has
two holes for installing a heatsink. Usually there are 4 holes, I think? Ok,
so the last thing I purchased, which was wrong, was the ZALMAN VF900-Cu VGA
cooler.
I still want to use the ATI FireGL X2 AGP Pro video card. When I play D2exp
the screen flickers. I never had that problem with the FireGL X2. I went into
BIOS and configured the video to 128mb, it was on 256mb and I think that
elivated some of the flicker. Would that have anything to do with flickering?
The mistake of ordering the cooler, I should've ordered the video card for
the ECS mobo. This video card is from ECS N8400GS2-512DS GeForce 8400 GS
512MB 64-bit GDDR2 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card for $42.99 from
newegg.com. I was about to purchase this card, but what do you think about
this card? I've read some reviews about this motherboard from newegg and I
don't want any hang-ups. I figure a card from ECS will be compatible. Also,
this board had an addendum attached saying it doesn't support DDR 400 RAM.
That's a problem, because user manual it says to use DDR 400 RAM.
Do you think it's worth it to even start this mobo? Maybe I should purchase
another mobo. I've only bought DDR 333 512 stick RAM so far, and a heatsink,
I could on any other board. What would you do?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1


"Paul" wrote:

> attilathehun1 wrote:
> > Ok, that's what my question was if I had to configure something or just let
> > the Windows XP Pro operating system recognize the drive during the initial
> > installation. I was told today that I didn't have to do anything and it would
> > recognize it during installation by a PC tech at PC Club.
> > When I was at the last installation of firing up the PC to see if it would
> > work, a snag happened. The video card is a monster, and it takes up two
> > slots, well not 2 PCI slots, but 2 slots at the backplate. You have to take
> > out 2 rear expansion slot covers during installation. Well, the damn card got
> > stuck between 3 slots, don't ask me how, but it happened. I was so pissed off
> > by that time, I just opened the trunk and tossed it in and drove to the PC
> > Club. For $29.95 he unstuck the video card and installed it. I offered $20
> > bucks in cash and he said ok, but I forgot my ATM card, so I was out of luck
> > there. I did learn how to do it, he unscrewed the backplate holder, and then
> > unstuck the card. So for about $30 bucks I learned how to get a card unstuck.
> > One thing though, the PC didn't fire up. He put a motherboard tester onto P1
> > of the power supply and it turns out the motherboard was dead.
> > Now I've said to my friend and family members that if you bring your PC
> > into a PC store 9 out of 10 times the tech will say you need a mobo. That's
> > simple, I go to someone's house or business and tell them after a quick
> > check that they need a motherboard. Great, how easy. Well I was in no
> > position to argue and now I'm about to call newegg.com and get an RMA number
> > or some wtf number to return this mobo. The other tech at PC Club said almost
> > 20 % of motherboards coming out of the factory don't work. I figure it's
> > about 10% maybe and that's pushing it.
> > Ok, here goes; Gigabyte S-Series model # GA-EP35C-DS3R. This mobo has one
> > IDE connector and 4 SATA connectors, 3 yellows and 1 purple. Now I realize
> > what the setting on the jumper on the hard drives when it says master with a
> > non ATA-compatible slave. Probably it has something to do with SATA and then
> > a non-SATA. That's just a question that's been bugging me for 2 or 3 years
> > everytime I see it on a hard drive about the jumper setting.
> > Ok, lets move on. I'm fixing up my old Dell 8300 again and plugging
> > everything back into it. I was upgrading my Dell 8300 and now this mobo
> > problem. I figure it probably is the problem because the PC Club tech plugged
> > his tester into motherboard power supply connector and took readings. The CPU
> > chip was stuck onto the heatsink. I had to go out and buy a hair dryer for 10
> > bucks and use it on high settings hot for 20 seoncds. I first through the
> > heatsink with attached chip into the freezer, then an hour later took it out
> > and 20 minutes later used the hair dryer and a straight edge screwdriver and
> > the chip came right off. Great what a little applied heat will do.
> > I want to know if I should use arctic silver or thermal paste. l cleaned
> > off both pieces and now I'm ready to apply the paste. It's a stock 8300 Dell.
> > I haven't changed the chip or heatsink. In fact, this was the first time I
> > ever took the heatsink off.
> > Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> > Thanks, attilathehun1
>
> Arctic Silver is a brand of thermal paste. What counts is using some kind
> of thermal paste, as a thermal paste is a better conductor of heat, than a
> thin layer of air would be. The thermal paste is there to displace air and
> push the air out of the way, when the heatsink is compressed into it. An
> "Oreo cookie" consisting of metal-paste-metal works better than
> metal-air-metal.
>
> I'm not familiar with PC Club and just exactly what a motherboard tester
> they would be using. With a completely empty motherboard, all you can test
> is that pressing the front Power button, causes the power supply to start.
> You need the components plugged in (processor, memory, video card and so
> on), to do a more thorough test. From your description, it is hard to say
> how the technician reached that conclusion.
>
> The defectivity rate of motherboards should not be 20%. Imagine if a company
> makes 5 million motherboards per month - they'd have 1 million coming back
> every month. Think how many humans it would take to handle that.
>
> Paul
>

Paul
Wed Jun 25 20:31:15 PDT 2008

attilathehun1 wrote:
> Yeah your right, 5 million customers and 1 million coming back. I'd say 5% is
> pushing it. One in twenty, ok maybe a bit more. Ten percent! No, I think 5%
> is right. Ok, enough of this betting or gambing on the % of mobos that aren't
> good coming out of the factory. I'd say 50% of the time or more you bring
> your PC to a PC tech store the PC employee will say it's the mobo. That's a
> for sure. Like I said, how easy. The washing machine man came to see our
> machine when it was on the blink and even he said it was the mobo on the
> washing machine.

I don't know what the number is, but common sense tells you it is less than
20%. My old company had staff at the plant, that did repair work, and there
was a small army of them. And they might be working on hundreds of boards,
not a million. Even if the staff are paid peanuts, the size of the building
to house an army to handle 1 million boards per month, would be huge.

> Ok, I just ordered DDR 333 RAM, a 512 stick for the Elitegroup mobo. I
> bought this mobo from newegg.com about 45 days ago, and I'm just now getting
> it going. I bought it because they gave a free 512 Kingston DDR 400 RAM stick
> as a throw-in. Acutally, I bought the RAM stick and the mobo was thrown in,
> that's the way I'm looking at it.

The AMD boards are slightly tunable. There is a setting called "command rate",
and a value of "2T" is less aggressive than "1T". If you couldn't run
DDR400 1T, you'd try DDR400 2T, then DDR333 1T, then DDR333 2T, and something
better be error free by the time you get that low down the performance scale.
I'd use a copy of memtest86+ from memtest.org, loaded on a floppy disk,
as a test that the memory was OK. A couple passes without errors, taking
an hour or two, means you can then install Windows (or try to). On my
computers, I do some testing first, before I try to load Windows.
Because otherwise, I could be wasting time for nothing.

> Also, a heatsink that will fit this mobo.
> This motherboard is something of an alien. I took off the heatsink bracket,
> it required motherboard removal because of the bottom-plate, and it only has
> two holes for installing a heatsink. Usually there are 4 holes, I think? Ok,
> so the last thing I purchased, which was wrong, was the ZALMAN VF900-Cu VGA
> cooler.

Looking at the picture in the manual, the two screws hold the retention bracket
in place. There are three tabs on either end of the retention bracket, and
you'd slide the ends of a clip over both sets of tabs. Some of the coolers
will use the existing retention bracket, so you don't have to remove it.
It all depends on how expensive and big a cooler you're going to use.

This cooler has 1300 reviews. "ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 64 Pro 92mm CPU Cooler" $30
You leave the retention bracket in place for this one. There are three holes on
each end of the clip. There is a level which rotates to apply pressure. So the
clip should fit without a big fight. Then you rotate the lever to finish the
job. S754 is in the list of supported sockets. The base of the heatsink is
already coated with MX-2 and doesn't need any help from the user (this
assumes you fit it right the first time, and don't scrape all the goo off
it).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185125

http://www.arcticcooling.com/cpu2.php?idx=80&disc=

(Installation instructions)

http://www.arctic-cooling.com/downloads/installation/install_freezer64_pro.pdf

> I still want to use the ATI FireGL X2 AGP Pro video card. When I play D2exp
> the screen flickers. I never had that problem with the FireGL X2. I went into
> BIOS and configured the video to 128mb, it was on 256mb and I think that
> elivated some of the flicker. Would that have anything to do with flickering?

The setting you're referring to, is called "AGP aperture". What it does,
is define a window into system memory, for use by the video card.
When the video card has run out of RAM, it might need more room to
store textures. Then it could use system RAM. The number you see
in the BIOS, is a maximum utilization value - it doesn't get used
the instant you set that in the BIOS. If you're not doing 3D, then
the system memory should be reusable. I keep mine set on the low
side - I may have tested some other values, but for me it didn't seem
to make a difference to the game I was playing.

AGP aperture was more important, when video cards didn't have a lot of
their own RAM. Now the cards have a decent amount of RAM, so there is
less reason to use system RAM for that.

I can't tell you right off hand why it flickers. If you run 3DMark2001SE
benchmark, does it still flicker ? This is a 40MB download. I like this
test, because it is one of the smaller downloads for 3D benchmarking.

http://majorgeeks.com/download99.html

Of course, when we're talking about the FireGL video card, that fits
in an AGP motherboard, so that won't be going in the GF6100 motherboard.

Perhaps you could tell me again, which AGP motherboard, you have the
flickering problem with the FireGL (effectively a 9800XT AGP8X).

If I had to start somewhere, I'd be reviewing what drivers I was using.
You'd need a chipset AGP driver, the ATI Catalyst driver and control
panel package, and DirectX 9c or greater (from Microsoft). A version
of DirectX should have been included on the ATI video card installer
CD. With ATI, it is best to get a more recent driver from the web
site - for my 9800Pro, the CD they included, caused the computer to
crash.

> The mistake of ordering the cooler, I should've ordered the video card for
> the ECS mobo. This video card is from ECS N8400GS2-512DS GeForce 8400 GS
> 512MB 64-bit GDDR2 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card for $42.99 from
> newegg.com. I was about to purchase this card, but what do you think about
> this card? I've read some reviews about this motherboard from newegg and I
> don't want any hang-ups. I figure a card from ECS will be compatible. Also,
> this board had an addendum attached saying it doesn't support DDR 400 RAM.
> That's a problem, because user manual it says to use DDR 400 RAM.
> Do you think it's worth it to even start this mobo? Maybe I should purchase
> another mobo. I've only bought DDR 333 512 stick RAM so far, and a heatsink,
> I could on any other board. What would you do?
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1

Well, generally you build a computer for a reason. Office work. Stock
trading. Gaming. Home theatre system. The hardware you put in it, is
a reflection of what you hope to do with it. The 8400 won't be a
strong card, but it also won't cost you an arm and a leg.

What happened to the 3870 I thought you bought ? Why not try one
of those ? You've already got it in your room, so it is ready to go.
Nothing to buy. All you'd need, is a decent power supply to power it.
The 3870 should make a better gaming card than the 8400GS.

The 3870 has ten times the memory bandwidth of the 8400GS.
It's a different class of card. The 8400GS has its place, like
perhaps a home theater HTPC build, but wouldn't be as strong
a gamer card.

http://www.gpureview.com/show_cards.php?card1=547&card2=529

Paul

attilathehun1
Wed Jun 25 22:04:01 PDT 2008

Yeah, I was thinking about that, but this ATI Radeon HD 3870 is so long and
huge I don't think it's the right card to put into the case I using for it or
even this mobo. Anyhow, isn't this an Intel chipset card, the ATI Radeon HD
3870? Oh no, I see Radeon and that means AMD chipset?
These questions are one at a time that I'd like to be answered if you
could? For example, this is question #1.
Ok, now for question #2. I've kinda decided on a cheaper card from
newegg.com. I'm deciding between 2 different cards.
Here they are: the ECS N8400GS2-512DS GeForce 8400 GS 512MB 64-bit GDDR2
PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card. $42.99 from newegg.com
Or the Asus EN8400GS SILENT/HTP/512M GeForce 8400 GS 512MB 64-bit GDDR2 PCI
Express x16 HDCP Ready Video Card. $49.99 from newegg.com
Now I'll point out the couple of differences I've noticed. The interface is
PCI Express 2.0 x16 with the ECS card , PCI Express x16 with the ASUS card,
only. No 2.0 there on the ASUS.
Next difference; the memory clock on the ASUS is 1000 MHz, and only 800MHz
with the ECS.
Next difference; the Asus is certified for Windows Vista and I don't see
the ECS certified for that.
Packaging; the ASUS comes with a HDTV cable and I don't see that with the
ECS.
One is fanless, the ASUS, the other ECS with a fan.
Which is better for me, do you think?
One more thing, I want a card that is AMD compatible. I don't want to go to
AMD's website and try and download the chipset video drivers for the card.
Remember I went to Intel's website, Intel Technologies,
http://support.intel.com and couldn't find the lastest AGP drivers. I don't
want that problem. I mean I went to the website and couldn't even find the
download that I wanted.
Another question, these cards, the AGP slot cards, aren't they outdated a
bit? These new cards are PCI Express, maybe they are compitable with other
chipsets?
Ok, there are about 4 questions I've asked and maybe answering just the
first 2 would be fine. All four questions are bugging me though.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1

--
attilathehun1


"Paul" wrote:

> attilathehun1 wrote:
> > Yeah your right, 5 million customers and 1 million coming back. I'd say 5% is
> > pushing it. One in twenty, ok maybe a bit more. Ten percent! No, I think 5%
> > is right. Ok, enough of this betting or gambing on the % of mobos that aren't
> > good coming out of the factory. I'd say 50% of the time or more you bring
> > your PC to a PC tech store the PC employee will say it's the mobo. That's a
> > for sure. Like I said, how easy. The washing machine man came to see our
> > machine when it was on the blink and even he said it was the mobo on the
> > washing machine.
>
> I don't know what the number is, but common sense tells you it is less than
> 20%. My old company had staff at the plant, that did repair work, and there
> was a small army of them. And they might be working on hundreds of boards,
> not a million. Even if the staff are paid peanuts, the size of the building
> to house an army to handle 1 million boards per month, would be huge.
>
> > Ok, I just ordered DDR 333 RAM, a 512 stick for the Elitegroup mobo. I
> > bought this mobo from newegg.com about 45 days ago, and I'm just now getting
> > it going. I bought it because they gave a free 512 Kingston DDR 400 RAM stick
> > as a throw-in. Acutally, I bought the RAM stick and the mobo was thrown in,
> > that's the way I'm looking at it.
>
> The AMD boards are slightly tunable. There is a setting called "command rate",
> and a value of "2T" is less aggressive than "1T". If you couldn't run
> DDR400 1T, you'd try DDR400 2T, then DDR333 1T, then DDR333 2T, and something
> better be error free by the time you get that low down the performance scale.
> I'd use a copy of memtest86+ from memtest.org, loaded on a floppy disk,
> as a test that the memory was OK. A couple passes without errors, taking
> an hour or two, means you can then install Windows (or try to). On my
> computers, I do some testing first, before I try to load Windows.
> Because otherwise, I could be wasting time for nothing.
>
> > Also, a heatsink that will fit this mobo.
> > This motherboard is something of an alien. I took off the heatsink bracket,
> > it required motherboard removal because of the bottom-plate, and it only has
> > two holes for installing a heatsink. Usually there are 4 holes, I think? Ok,
> > so the last thing I purchased, which was wrong, was the ZALMAN VF900-Cu VGA
> > cooler.
>
> Looking at the picture in the manual, the two screws hold the retention bracket
> in place. There are three tabs on either end of the retention bracket, and
> you'd slide the ends of a clip over both sets of tabs. Some of the coolers
> will use the existing retention bracket, so you don't have to remove it.
> It all depends on how expensive and big a cooler you're going to use.
>
> This cooler has 1300 reviews. "ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 64 Pro 92mm CPU Cooler" $30
> You leave the retention bracket in place for this one. There are three holes on
> each end of the clip. There is a level which rotates to apply pressure. So the
> clip should fit without a big fight. Then you rotate the lever to finish the
> job. S754 is in the list of supported sockets. The base of the heatsink is
> already coated with MX-2 and doesn't need any help from the user (this
> assumes you fit it right the first time, and don't scrape all the goo off
> it).
>
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185125
>
> http://www.arcticcooling.com/cpu2.php?idx=80&disc=
>
> (Installation instructions)
>
> http://www.arctic-cooling.com/downloads/installation/install_freezer64_pro.pdf
>
> > I still want to use the ATI FireGL X2 AGP Pro video card. When I play D2exp
> > the screen flickers. I never had that problem with the FireGL X2. I went into
> > BIOS and configured the video to 128mb, it was on 256mb and I think that
> > elivated some of the flicker. Would that have anything to do with flickering?
>
> The setting you're referring to, is called "AGP aperture". What it does,
> is define a window into system memory, for use by the video card.
> When the video card has run out of RAM, it might need more room to
> store textures. Then it could use system RAM. The number you see
> in the BIOS, is a maximum utilization value - it doesn't get used
> the instant you set that in the BIOS. If you're not doing 3D, then
> the system memory should be reusable. I keep mine set on the low
> side - I may have tested some other values, but for me it didn't seem
> to make a difference to the game I was playing.
>
> AGP aperture was more important, when video cards didn't have a lot of
> their own RAM. Now the cards have a decent amount of RAM, so there is
> less reason to use system RAM for that.
>
> I can't tell you right off hand why it flickers. If you run 3DMark2001SE
> benchmark, does it still flicker ? This is a 40MB download. I like this
> test, because it is one of the smaller downloads for 3D benchmarking.
>
> http://majorgeeks.com/download99.html
>
> Of course, when we're talking about the FireGL video card, that fits
> in an AGP motherboard, so that won't be going in the GF6100 motherboard.
>
> Perhaps you could tell me again, which AGP motherboard, you have the
> flickering problem with the FireGL (effectively a 9800XT AGP8X).
>
> If I had to start somewhere, I'd be reviewing what drivers I was using.
> You'd need a chipset AGP driver, the ATI Catalyst driver and control
> panel package, and DirectX 9c or greater (from Microsoft). A version
> of DirectX should have been included on the ATI video card installer
> CD. With ATI, it is best to get a more recent driver from the web
> site - for my 9800Pro, the CD they included, caused the computer to
> crash.
>
> > The mi