Magnetic screwdriver to use on mobo

I want to know if it is a problem to use a screwdriver that has been run
throught a magnet and now it's a magnetic screwdriver. An 8" #1 phillips
head, which is hard to find anywhere. My favorite screw driver is now like a
magnet.
I know it's not a wise idea to use a magnetic screwdriver around a hard
drive, but what is the deal around a motherboard. Will it effect the
motherboard?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1

Tom
Wed Jun 25 09:20:45 PDT 2008

Googling around, the general consensus seems to be not to use one.

"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:E635BA78-E263-4651-BC6E-8BEC3F99573D@microsoft.com...
: I want to know if it is a problem to use a screwdriver that has been run
: throught a magnet and now it's a magnetic screwdriver. An 8" #1 phillips
: head, which is hard to find anywhere. My favorite screw driver is now like
a
: magnet.
: I know it's not a wise idea to use a magnetic screwdriver around a hard
: drive, but what is the deal around a motherboard. Will it effect the
: motherboard?
: Any help will be greatly appreciated.
: Thanks, attilathehun1
: --
: attilathehun1

Michael
Wed Jun 25 11:07:02 PDT 2008

Tom [Pepper] Willett wrote:
> Googling around, the general consensus seems to be not to use one.
>

I have never had a problem with magnetic screwdrivers in over 25 years
of building and maintaining PCs and other computers. A lot of time the
only way to get a screw in some places is with one as there is not
enough room for fingers, plus they are great for getting those screws
that get loose.


> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
> news:E635BA78-E263-4651-BC6E-8BEC3F99573D@microsoft.com...
> : I want to know if it is a problem to use a screwdriver that has been run
> : throught a magnet and now it's a magnetic screwdriver. An 8" #1 phillips
> : head, which is hard to find anywhere. My favorite screw driver is now like
> a
> : magnet.
> : I know it's not a wise idea to use a magnetic screwdriver around a hard
> : drive, but what is the deal around a motherboard. Will it effect the
> : motherboard?
> : Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> : Thanks, attilathehun1
> : --
> : attilathehun1
>
>

Paul
Wed Jun 25 12:34:52 PDT 2008

attilathehun1 wrote:
> I want to know if it is a problem to use a screwdriver that has been run
> throught a magnet and now it's a magnetic screwdriver. An 8" #1 phillips
> head, which is hard to find anywhere. My favorite screw driver is now like a
> magnet.
> I know it's not a wise idea to use a magnetic screwdriver around a hard
> drive, but what is the deal around a motherboard. Will it effect the
> motherboard?
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1

The magnetic field makes no difference, as I explained when I answered
this for you before. There is a magnet inside the hard drive,
as part of the actuator assembly, which is way more powerful than
your screwdriver. And it doesn't hurt anything. None of the
motherboard components give a hoot about magnetic fields.

A CRT monitor is sensitive to magnetism, so if you have an old
computer monitor with a glass tube, then keep the magnets away
from those.

I use a magnetized screwdriver for assembly, and haven't had a
problem yet. Mind you, it is not a super strong magnet, and
barely can pick up screws.

Paul

sgopus
Wed Jun 25 14:46:02 PDT 2008

not a problem, been using one for years.

"attilathehun1" wrote:

> I want to know if it is a problem to use a screwdriver that has been run
> throught a magnet and now it's a magnetic screwdriver. An 8" #1 phillips
> head, which is hard to find anywhere. My favorite screw driver is now like a
> magnet.
> I know it's not a wise idea to use a magnetic screwdriver around a hard
> drive, but what is the deal around a motherboard. Will it effect the
> motherboard?
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> --
> attilathehun1

Lil'
Wed Jun 25 21:49:52 PDT 2008

"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:E635BA78-E263-4651-BC6E-8BEC3F99573D@microsoft.com...
> I want to know if it is a problem to use a screwdriver that has been run
> throught a magnet and now it's a magnetic screwdriver. An 8" #1 phillips
> head, which is hard to find anywhere. My favorite screw driver is now like
> a
> magnet.
> I know it's not a wise idea to use a magnetic screwdriver around a hard
> drive, but what is the deal around a motherboard. Will it effect the
> motherboard?
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> --
> attilathehun1

Obviously, to me, a form of bait. Does any person that has previously
replied have any idea the size of a #1 screwdriver bit end?
Just because you changed your screen name (b11_), I still know your mode of
operation. Nothing has changed.
--
Dave

VanguardLH
Wed Jun 25 23:14:06 PDT 2008

"Paul" wrote in <news:g3u6jp$g7f$1@aioe.org>:

> attilathehun1 wrote:
>> I want to know if it is a problem to use a screwdriver that has been run
>> throught a magnet and now it's a magnetic screwdriver. An 8" #1 phillips
>> head, which is hard to find anywhere. My favorite screw driver is now like a
>> magnet.
>> I know it's not a wise idea to use a magnetic screwdriver around a hard
>> drive, but what is the deal around a motherboard. Will it effect the
>> motherboard?
>> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>> Thanks, attilathehun1
>
> The magnetic field makes no difference, as I explained when I answered
> this for you before. There is a magnet inside the hard drive,
> as part of the actuator assembly, which is way more powerful than
> your screwdriver. And it doesn't hurt anything. None of the
> motherboard components give a hoot about magnetic fields.

There is nothing that isn't adequately shielded from such a weak
magnetic field as that induced into a metallic screwdriver. Unless the
user dismantled his hard disk so it is outside its metal case, the
screwdriver would have not effect, and if he dismantled his hard disk
then the screwdriver will also not be the cause for the drive's failure
when exposed to the particulates in the air. Memory isn't magnetic.
CPUs aren't magnetic. In fact, the transformer in the PSU might not
even be shielded (been too long since I had to dismantle one to
remember).

> A CRT monitor is sensitive to magnetism, so if you have an old
> computer monitor with a glass tube, then keep the magnets away
> from those.

Only a problem if the CRT used a metallic mask to separate the phosphors
for the different colors. This shadow mask was to create sharper
distinction between the dots, prevent bleed over, and to provide a
blacker background for greater contrast. The magnet could distort the
metallic mask which misaligned it with the phosphor dots and you ruined
your television. For the same reason, you should not use a degaussing
coil on these types of televisions. Not a problem if the CRT monitor
doesn't have a metallic mask as phosphoric compound is not magnetic.

> I use a magnetized screwdriver for assembly, and haven't had a
> problem yet. Mind you, it is not a super strong magnet, and
> barely can pick up screws.

If you magnetize a screwdriver yourself, usually you can whack it with a
hammer to randomize the dipoles or do the same with a butane torch since
heat will randomize the dipoles. Only screwdrivers that include a
magnetic pellet at one end will retain their magnetism. Even a manually
magnetized screwdriver loses its retentivity over time, especially when
banged around in a toolbox. That is, a magnetized screwdriver isn't the
same as a magnetic screwdriver: one was swiped with a magnetic and only
the steel is retaining the field for awhile but it is weak while the
other actually incorporates a magnet and remains useful.

M
Thu Jun 26 01:45:03 PDT 2008


"VanguardLH" <V@nguard.LH> wrote in message
news:9pSdnYoz8qYzrv7VnZ2dnUVZ_sWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
>
>> A CRT monitor is sensitive to magnetism, so if you have an old
>> computer monitor with a glass tube, then keep the magnets away
>> from those.
>
> Only a problem if the CRT used a metallic mask to separate the phosphors
> for the different colors. This shadow mask was to create sharper
> distinction between the dots, prevent bleed over, and to provide a
> blacker background for greater contrast. The magnet could distort the
> metallic mask which misaligned it with the phosphor dots and you ruined
> your television. For the same reason, you should not use a degaussing
> coil on these types of televisions. Not a problem if the CRT monitor
> doesn't have a metallic mask as phosphoric compound is not magnetic.
>

You are not accurate in that post. The shadow mask (or aperture grill in a
trinitron) is essential as it is this that ensures that each of the 3
electron beams falls on the correct phosphors on the screen. It has nothing
to do with contrast enhancement or creating sharper distinction (in fact it
has the opposite effect). It certainly doesn't provide a blacker background
either. Although they can be misaligned by a strong magnet, because they
are made of steel, they can become magnetised in other ways. In these
circumstances, they not only *can* be degaussed with an external degausing
coil, it is the *only* way to remove the magnetism. And, of course, the
monitor will also have its own degausing coil to do much the same thing, but
is not as powerful. This is something I do regularly and have never
distorted a shadow mask doing it. No colour CRT will not have a metallic
shadow mask or aperture grill as they have to be conductive for technical
reasons, and steel is adequate for the job and cheap to fabricate.

M
Thu Jun 26 01:46:25 PDT 2008


"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:E635BA78-E263-4651-BC6E-8BEC3F99573D@microsoft.com...
> I want to know if it is a problem to use a screwdriver that has been run
> throught a magnet and now it's a magnetic screwdriver. An 8" #1 phillips
> head, which is hard to find anywhere. My favorite screw driver is now like
> a
> magnet.
> I know it's not a wise idea to use a magnetic screwdriver around a hard
> drive, but what is the deal around a motherboard. Will it effect the
> motherboard?
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1
>

There is nothing on a motherboard, or indeed, in a computer case that is
sensitive to the sort of magnetism encountered in a magnetic screwdriver.
Not even the hard disc drives.

VanguardLH
Thu Jun 26 02:25:03 PDT 2008

"M.I.5¾" wrote in <news:486352f1$1_1@glkas0286.greenlnk.net>:

> "VanguardLH" <V@nguard.LH> wrote in message
> news:9pSdnYoz8qYzrv7VnZ2dnUVZ_sWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
>>
>>> A CRT monitor is sensitive to magnetism, so if you have an old
>>> computer monitor with a glass tube, then keep the magnets away
>>> from those.
>>
>> Only a problem if the CRT used a metallic mask to separate the phosphors
>> for the different colors. This shadow mask was to create sharper
>> distinction between the dots, prevent bleed over, and to provide a
>> blacker background for greater contrast. The magnet could distort the
>> metallic mask which misaligned it with the phosphor dots and you ruined
>> your television. For the same reason, you should not use a degaussing
>> coil on these types of televisions. Not a problem if the CRT monitor
>> doesn't have a metallic mask as phosphoric compound is not magnetic.
>>
>
> You are not accurate in that post. The shadow mask (or aperture grill in a
> trinitron) is essential as it is this that ensures that each of the 3
> electron beams falls on the correct phosphors on the screen. It has nothing
> to do with contrast enhancement or creating sharper distinction (in fact it
> has the opposite effect). It certainly doesn't provide a blacker background
> either. Although they can be misaligned by a strong magnet, because they
> are made of steel, they can become magnetised in other ways. In these
> circumstances, they not only *can* be degaussed with an external degausing
> coil, it is the *only* way to remove the magnetism. And, of course, the
> monitor will also have its own degausing coil to do much the same thing, but
> is not as powerful. This is something I do regularly and have never
> distorted a shadow mask doing it. No colour CRT will not have a metallic
> shadow mask or aperture grill as they have to be conductive for technical
> reasons, and steel is adequate for the job and cheap to fabricate.

I think you're right about a degaussing coil *if* used properly. The
topic was about a magnetized screwdriver (probably very weak) and I
forgot that a degaussing coil is A/C (the field reverses at wall
frequency). Because it is an A/C induced field, the only danger is if
you power it off while near the tube's face because of the last
collapsing field is then in only one direction. You have to approach
and leave the TV tube with the coil energized and turn it off while a
ways away (and, as I recall, it was also recommended to turn the coil to
90 degrees to the TV tube's face when you turned it off). I also
remember that you should NOT use the degaussing coil at the back of the
TV case or near the tube's neck because that will demagnetize geometry
correction, purity, and convergence magnets. So while backing off from
one TV to cease degaussing, you don't want to be moving the coil towards
another set on the shelf with the backside toward you.

It is a unidirectional magnetic field that can distort the mask. I
don't remember what field strength would be needed but do remember
playing with a junker TV and probably a speaker magnet or a neodymium
super-strong magnet to see the whimsical coloring as I moved it around
only to then see that the mask had been distorted and those
colorizations remained. Although you might see color effects with a
magnetized screwdriver, it probably isn't sufficient to distort the mask
(but then there is no point in experimenting to find out). I remember
some folks recounting how they used a soldering iron (with tip in place
for it to work) to use that slight magnetic field to erase small
coloring effects (that the weak built-in degaussing circuit won't
eliminate). It is too weak to distort the mask but gets rid of the
electrostatic charge still remnant in a spot.

Since a non-A/C magnetic field was mentioned, a magnet could magnetize a
spot on the mask and distort the electron beam (which *might* be
corrected with a degaussing coil but I've seen some stubborn spots that
just won't go away after several attempts at degaussing). If strong
enough, a magnet could physically distort the mask. However, even if
A/C, I've heard that putting a bulk tape eraser too close will cause a
problem. Although an alternating field, you don't want the mask to
physically deform in alternating directions. The idea is to dissipate
or equalize any remnant electrostatic charge, not move the mask.

attilathehun1
Thu Jun 26 04:21:02 PDT 2008

Ok, I had my friend, who is a moron, that was playing with the screwdriver
and a strong magnet. Now, even if I use the magnet-demagnet device, you know
the box type device that home-depot sells to magnetic screwdrivers and the
such, it won't demagnetize the screwdriver, and I've done the steps I've been
told to do for it to work. I wanted to magnetically use the screwdriver
especially for gettting the mobo screws off and on. In hard to reach places
it comes in handy to have a magnetized screwdriver or reaching tool.
Ok, so everyone is saying that there is no problem, especially with the
mobo screws, using a magnetic screwdriver. As far as the CRT monitor, I don't
think I've used a screwdriver on anything, except a tough cable that won't
come out with just finger strenght.
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1


"M.I.5¾" wrote:

>
> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
> news:E635BA78-E263-4651-BC6E-8BEC3F99573D@microsoft.com...
> > I want to know if it is a problem to use a screwdriver that has been run
> > throught a magnet and now it's a magnetic screwdriver. An 8" #1 phillips
> > head, which is hard to find anywhere. My favorite screw driver is now like
> > a
> > magnet.
> > I know it's not a wise idea to use a magnetic screwdriver around a hard
> > drive, but what is the deal around a motherboard. Will it effect the
> > motherboard?
> > Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> > Thanks, attilathehun1
> >
>
> There is nothing on a motherboard, or indeed, in a computer case that is
> sensitive to the sort of magnetism encountered in a magnetic screwdriver.
> Not even the hard disc drives.
>
>
>

JohnO
Thu Jun 26 10:46:42 PDT 2008


"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:6898B6B4-8BDB-44DA-9E83-CACDFAAF6664@microsoft.com...
> Ok, I had my friend, who is a moron, that was playing with the screwdriver
> and a strong magnet. Now, even if I use the magnet-demagnet device, you
> know
> the box type device that home-depot sells to magnetic screwdrivers and the
> such, it won't demagnetize the screwdriver, and I've done the steps I've
> been
> told to do for it to work.

Whack the end of the screwdriver on a concrete floor a couple times, or even
just a tabletop. Keep whacking it.

-John O

Bill
Thu Jun 26 11:05:45 PDT 2008


JohnO wrote:
> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
> news:6898B6B4-8BDB-44DA-9E83-CACDFAAF6664@microsoft.com...
>> Ok, I had my friend, who is a moron, that was playing with the
>> screwdriver
>> and a strong magnet. Now, even if I use the magnet-demagnet device, you
>> know
>> the box type device that home-depot sells to magnetic screwdrivers and
>> the
>> such, it won't demagnetize the screwdriver, and I've done the steps I've
>> been told to do for it to work.
>
> Whack the end of the screwdriver on a concrete floor a couple times, or
> even
> just a tabletop. Keep whacking it.
>
> -John O

Or more effective yet, put the screwdriver on a hard surface (like concrete)
and hit the shank of the screwdriver with a hammer a few times.

M
Mon Jun 30 00:10:54 PDT 2008


"VanguardLH" <V@nguard.LH> wrote in message
news:h6CdnS3f5NTy_f7VnZ2dnUVZ_sbinZ2d@comcast.com...
> "M.I.5¾" wrote in <news:486352f1$1_1@glkas0286.greenlnk.net>:
>
>> "VanguardLH" <V@nguard.LH> wrote in message
>> news:9pSdnYoz8qYzrv7VnZ2dnUVZ_sWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
>>>
>>>> A CRT monitor is sensitive to magnetism, so if you have an old
>>>> computer monitor with a glass tube, then keep the magnets away
>>>> from those.
>>>
>>> Only a problem if the CRT used a metallic mask to separate the phosphors
>>> for the different colors. This shadow mask was to create sharper
>>> distinction between the dots, prevent bleed over, and to provide a
>>> blacker background for greater contrast. The magnet could distort the
>>> metallic mask which misaligned it with the phosphor dots and you ruined
>>> your television. For the same reason, you should not use a degaussing
>>> coil on these types of televisions. Not a problem if the CRT monitor
>>> doesn't have a metallic mask as phosphoric compound is not magnetic.
>>>
>>
>> You are not accurate in that post. The shadow mask (or aperture grill in
>> a
>> trinitron) is essential as it is this that ensures that each of the 3
>> electron beams falls on the correct phosphors on the screen. It has
>> nothing
>> to do with contrast enhancement or creating sharper distinction (in fact
>> it
>> has the opposite effect). It certainly doesn't provide a blacker
>> background
>> either. Although they can be misaligned by a strong magnet, because
>> they
>> are made of steel, they can become magnetised in other ways. In these
>> circumstances, they not only *can* be degaussed with an external
>> degausing
>> coil, it is the *only* way to remove the magnetism. And, of course, the
>> monitor will also have its own degausing coil to do much the same thing,
>> but
>> is not as powerful. This is something I do regularly and have never
>> distorted a shadow mask doing it. No colour CRT will not have a metallic
>> shadow mask or aperture grill as they have to be conductive for technical
>> reasons, and steel is adequate for the job and cheap to fabricate.
>
> I think you're right about a degaussing coil *if* used properly. The
> topic was about a magnetized screwdriver (probably very weak) and I
> forgot that a degaussing coil is A/C (the field reverses at wall
> frequency). Because it is an A/C induced field, the only danger is if
> you power it off while near the tube's face because of the last
> collapsing field is then in only one direction. You have to approach
> and leave the TV tube with the coil energized and turn it off while a
> ways away (and, as I recall, it was also recommended to turn the coil to
> 90 degrees to the TV tube's face when you turned it off). I also
> remember that you should NOT use the degaussing coil at the back of the
> TV case or near the tube's neck because that will demagnetize geometry
> correction, purity, and convergence magnets. So while backing off from
> one TV to cease degaussing, you don't want to be moving the coil towards
> another set on the shelf with the backside toward you.
>

Next week: teaching Grandma to suck eggs.

> It is a unidirectional magnetic field that can distort the mask. I
> don't remember what field strength would be needed but do remember
> playing with a junker TV and probably a speaker magnet or a neodymium
> super-strong magnet to see the whimsical coloring as I moved it around
> only to then see that the mask had been distorted and those
> colorizations remained. Although you might see color effects with a
> magnetized screwdriver, it probably isn't sufficient to distort the mask
> (but then there is no point in experimenting to find out). I remember
> some folks recounting how they used a soldering iron (with tip in place
> for it to work) to use that slight magnetic field to erase small
> coloring effects (that the weak built-in degaussing circuit won't
> eliminate). It is too weak to distort the mask but gets rid of the
> electrostatic charge still remnant in a spot.
>

The resulting colouring may not be due to distortion for the smaller
magnets. It could be the result of induced fields. If so it cn be removed
with a gegaussing coil.

> Since a non-A/C magnetic field was mentioned, a magnet could magnetize a
> spot on the mask and distort the electron beam (which *might* be
> corrected with a degaussing coil but I've seen some stubborn spots that
> just won't go away after several attempts at degaussing). If strong
> enough, a magnet could physically distort the mask. However, even if
> A/C, I've heard that putting a bulk tape eraser too close will cause a
> problem. Although an alternating field, you don't want the mask to
> physically deform in alternating directions. The idea is to dissipate
> or equalize any remnant electrostatic charge, not move the mask.

There is no way a gegaussing coil can remove any electrostatic charge.