Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032 motherboard
battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated the RAM sticks,
changed the power supply, changed the video card, changed the IDE parallel
straps, changed the monitor, changed the hard drive, and finally took out the
motherboard and removed the heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and
checked the chip out. After all that it turns out the reason the PC stopped
working was the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again for
a little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next day you
will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim out. Tell tail
signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking this new battery checker
device that I bought from Home Depot and I needed batteries to check to see
if the settings worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically do
anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1

Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by Don

Don
Wed Jun 11 15:09:58 PDT 2008

"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:76051807-3291-4B09-BEB1-0BCFC5724ABB@microsoft.com...

> Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
> that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically
do
> anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?

If the system ran OK when the battery was good, and failed when
the battery expired, it seems likely a new good battery will enable
the system to run OK. (Of course you may need to customize
BIOS settiings.)

If you ask specific questions about motherboard jumpers or
BIOS you will need to identify these before anyone can answer,
or else add your questions to a thread that already identifies them.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)



Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by Twayne

Twayne
Wed Jun 11 15:56:41 PDT 2008

> Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
> motherboard battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated
> the RAM sticks, changed the power supply, changed the video card,
> changed the IDE parallel straps, changed the monitor, changed the
> hard drive, and finally took out the motherboard and removed the
> heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and checked the chip out.
> After all that it turns out the reason the PC stopped working was the
> little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again for a
> little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
> flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next
> day you will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim
> out. Tell tail signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking
> this new battery checker device that I bought from Home Depot and I
> needed batteries to check to see if the settings worked and found out
> the battery wasn't working.
> Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the
> motherboard
> that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to
> physically do anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure
> something there?
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1


Go to the mobo mfg site and look for instructions on same. Are you sure
that's what it's for? Make certain. Get the wrong one and you could
possibly put improper voltages on something. Get the instructions for
that mobo somehow, if you have to look on EBay and Craig's List for
them.

Most likely, and it won't hurt anything to try:

If the jumper is on a header with only two pins:
remove it, wait about 60 seconds, replace it. CMOS should be reset.

If there are 3 pins in the header:
Pull the jumper off as above and replace it; see if it did anything.
No?
Put the jumper on the OTHER TWO pins for 60 seconds. The put back in
original position.
See if it helped.

More than 3 pins in the header? STOP! Don't mess with it. Either it's
the wrong one or there's something special about it.

HTH





Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by attilathehun1

attilathehun1
Wed Jun 11 16:12:01 PDT 2008

OK, there are 3 pins on the jumper. Should I first try to start if up and see
if everything comes up fine? Or after I start it up go into BIOS and then
switch the jumper from 1 & 2 prong to 2 & 3 prong for how long and then
switch them back. Ok, I just want to know after firing up the PC, when to
start the jumper procedure.
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1


"Twayne" wrote:

> > Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
> > motherboard battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated
> > the RAM sticks, changed the power supply, changed the video card,
> > changed the IDE parallel straps, changed the monitor, changed the
> > hard drive, and finally took out the motherboard and removed the
> > heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and checked the chip out.
> > After all that it turns out the reason the PC stopped working was the
> > little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again for a
> > little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
> > flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next
> > day you will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim
> > out. Tell tail signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking
> > this new battery checker device that I bought from Home Depot and I
> > needed batteries to check to see if the settings worked and found out
> > the battery wasn't working.
> > Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the
> > motherboard
> > that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to
> > physically do anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure
> > something there?
> > Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> > Thanks, attilathehun1
>
>
> Go to the mobo mfg site and look for instructions on same. Are you sure
> that's what it's for? Make certain. Get the wrong one and you could
> possibly put improper voltages on something. Get the instructions for
> that mobo somehow, if you have to look on EBay and Craig's List for
> them.
>
> Most likely, and it won't hurt anything to try:
>
> If the jumper is on a header with only two pins:
> remove it, wait about 60 seconds, replace it. CMOS should be reset.
>
> If there are 3 pins in the header:
> Pull the jumper off as above and replace it; see if it did anything.
> No?
> Put the jumper on the OTHER TWO pins for 60 seconds. The put back in
> original position.
> See if it helped.
>
> More than 3 pins in the header? STOP! Don't mess with it. Either it's
> the wrong one or there's something special about it.
>
> HTH
>
>
>
>
>

Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by Mike

Mike
Wed Jun 11 16:16:08 PDT 2008

"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:76051807-3291-4B09-BEB1-0BCFC5724ABB@microsoft.com...
> Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
> motherboard
> battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated the RAM sticks,
> changed the power supply, changed the video card, changed the IDE parallel
> straps, changed the monitor, changed the hard drive, and finally took out
> the
> motherboard and removed the heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and
> checked the chip out. After all that it turns out the reason the PC
> stopped
> working was the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again
> for
> a little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
> flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next day
> you
> will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim out. Tell
> tail
> signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking this new battery
> checker
> device that I bought from Home Depot and I needed batteries to check to
> see
> if the settings worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
> Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
> that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically
> do
> anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> --
> attilathehun1


The CMOS jumper is generally set on two of three pins by default in order to
preserve BIOS settings. Moving the jumper to the 'other' pair will set the
BIOS to factory default, after which the jumper is placed back on the
'running' pair of pins

You don't have to move the jumper unless you have set some BIOS and the
computer will not boot properly to Windows..



--
Mike Hall - MVP
How to construct a good post..
http://dts-l.com/goodpost.htm
How to use the Microsoft Product Support Newsgroups..
http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?pr=newswhelp&style=toc
Mike's Window - My Blog..
http://msmvps.com/blogs/mikehall/default.aspx





Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by peter

peter
Wed Jun 11 17:40:51 PDT 2008

By removing the battery you've already set the CMOS to default....there is
no need to "jump" anything.
Restart and enter the BIOS...correct the date and let the BIOS redetect all
hardware...double check to see that it matches what you have.
Reboot and let it start whatever OS you are using...Go to Device manager and
check to see that all devices are functioning.
Thatâ??s it..............
Any Customizations that you had before will need to be redone...but first
make sure "default" works..!!!!!!!!

peter

--
DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me
offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it.
If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to
me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate... ;-)


"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:ADCC1412-FC67-4427-9ED5-BB19E34F1B21@microsoft.com...
> OK, there are 3 pins on the jumper. Should I first try to start if up and
> see
> if everything comes up fine? Or after I start it up go into BIOS and then
> switch the jumper from 1 & 2 prong to 2 & 3 prong for how long and then
> switch them back. Ok, I just want to know after firing up the PC, when to
> start the jumper procedure.
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> --
> attilathehun1
>
>
> "Twayne" wrote:
>
>> > Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
>> > motherboard battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated
>> > the RAM sticks, changed the power supply, changed the video card,
>> > changed the IDE parallel straps, changed the monitor, changed the
>> > hard drive, and finally took out the motherboard and removed the
>> > heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and checked the chip out.
>> > After all that it turns out the reason the PC stopped working was the
>> > little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again for a
>> > little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
>> > flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next
>> > day you will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim
>> > out. Tell tail signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking
>> > this new battery checker device that I bought from Home Depot and I
>> > needed batteries to check to see if the settings worked and found out
>> > the battery wasn't working.
>> > Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the
>> > motherboard
>> > that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to
>> > physically do anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure
>> > something there?
>> > Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>> > Thanks, attilathehun1
>>
>>
>> Go to the mobo mfg site and look for instructions on same. Are you sure
>> that's what it's for? Make certain. Get the wrong one and you could
>> possibly put improper voltages on something. Get the instructions for
>> that mobo somehow, if you have to look on EBay and Craig's List for
>> them.
>>
>> Most likely, and it won't hurt anything to try:
>>
>> If the jumper is on a header with only two pins:
>> remove it, wait about 60 seconds, replace it. CMOS should be reset.
>>
>> If there are 3 pins in the header:
>> Pull the jumper off as above and replace it; see if it did anything.
>> No?
>> Put the jumper on the OTHER TWO pins for 60 seconds. The put back in
>> original position.
>> See if it helped.
>>
>> More than 3 pins in the header? STOP! Don't mess with it. Either it's
>> the wrong one or there's something special about it.
>>
>> HTH
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by Twayne

Twayne
Wed Jun 11 18:25:17 PDT 2008

> By removing the battery you've already set the CMOS to
> default....there is no need to "jump" anything.
> Restart and enter the BIOS...correct the date and let the BIOS
> redetect all hardware...double check to see that it matches what you
> have. Reboot and let it start whatever OS you are using...Go to Device
> manager and check to see that all devices are functioning.
> That's it..............
> Any Customizations that you had before will need to be redone...but
> first make sure "default" works..!!!!!!!!
>
> peter

Good grief! How did I miss that? Good catch lol

>
>
> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in
> message news:ADCC1412-FC67-4427-9ED5-BB19E34F1B21@microsoft.com...
>> OK, there are 3 pins on the jumper. Should I first try to start if
>> up and see
>> if everything comes up fine? Or after I start it up go into BIOS and
>> then switch the jumper from 1 & 2 prong to 2 & 3 prong for how long
>> and then switch them back. Ok, I just want to know after firing up
>> the PC, when to start the jumper procedure.
>> Thanks,
>> attilathehun1 --
>> attilathehun1
>>
>>
>> "Twayne" wrote:
>>
>>>> Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
>>>> motherboard battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated
>>>> the RAM sticks, changed the power supply, changed the video card,
>>>> changed the IDE parallel straps, changed the monitor, changed the
>>>> hard drive, and finally took out the motherboard and removed the
>>>> heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and checked the chip out.
>>>> After all that it turns out the reason the PC stopped working was
>>>> the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again for a
>>>> little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
>>>> flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the
>>>> next day you will get some power and it will work for a while and
>>>> then dim out. Tell tail signs of battery failure. By accident I
>>>> was checking this new battery checker device that I bought from
>>>> Home Depot and I needed batteries to check to see if the settings
>>>> worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
>>>> Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the
>>>> motherboard
>>>> that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to
>>>> physically do anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and
>>>> configure something there?
>>>> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> attilathehun1
>>>
>>>
>>> Go to the mobo mfg site and look for instructions on same. Are you
>>> sure that's what it's for? Make certain. Get the wrong one and
>>> you could possibly put improper voltages on something. Get the
>>> instructions for that mobo somehow, if you have to look on EBay and
>>> Craig's List for them.
>>>
>>> Most likely, and it won't hurt anything to try:
>>>
>>> If the jumper is on a header with only two pins:
>>> remove it, wait about 60 seconds, replace it. CMOS should be
>>> reset. If there are 3 pins in the header:
>>> Pull the jumper off as above and replace it; see if it did
>>> anything. No?
>>> Put the jumper on the OTHER TWO pins for 60 seconds. The put
>>> back in original position.
>>> See if it helped.
>>>
>>> More than 3 pins in the header? STOP! Don't mess with it. Either
>>> it's the wrong one or there's something special about it.
>>>
>>> HTH




Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by Xandros

Xandros
Wed Jun 11 20:48:31 PDT 2008

Leave the jumper alone. It's purpose is to allow you to physically reset the
CMOS settings back to their original settings. Removing the battery for a
few minutes typically does the same thing. So the dead battery took care of
that . Once the fresh battery is installed simply start the computer.
However if you had some custom setting in the BIOS you will need to reset
those but that is done by accessing the BIOS not moving jumpers around.
--

Xandros


"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:76051807-3291-4B09-BEB1-0BCFC5724ABB@microsoft.com...
> Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
> motherboard
> battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated the RAM sticks,
> changed the power supply, changed the video card, changed the IDE parallel
> straps, changed the monitor, changed the hard drive, and finally took out
> the
> motherboard and removed the heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and
> checked the chip out. After all that it turns out the reason the PC
> stopped
> working was the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again
> for
> a little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
> flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next day
> you
> will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim out. Tell
> tail
> signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking this new battery
> checker
> device that I bought from Home Depot and I needed batteries to check to
> see
> if the settings worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
> Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
> that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically
> do
> anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> --
> attilathehun1



Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by philo

philo
Thu Jun 12 02:06:38 PDT 2008


"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:76051807-3291-4B09-BEB1-0BCFC5724ABB@microsoft.com...
> Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
motherboard
> battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated the RAM sticks,
> changed the power supply, changed the video card, changed the IDE parallel
> straps, changed the monitor, changed the hard drive, and finally took out
the
> motherboard and removed the heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and
> checked the chip out. After all that it turns out the reason the PC
stopped
> working was the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again
for
> a little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
> flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next day
you
> will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim out. Tell
tail
> signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking this new battery
checker
> device that I bought from Home Depot and I needed batteries to check to
see
> if the settings worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
> Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
> that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically
do
> anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1


Nope,you don't have to do much more than just reset the date.
Glad you got it working.



Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by attilathehun1

attilathehun1
Thu Jun 12 02:51:03 PDT 2008

So, unless I'm having some type of problem, all I do it go into BIOS and
configure the correct date, can't I fix the date from the system tray on the
right hand bottom corner task bar? Or do I have to go into BIOS while it's
booting up the first time and correct the date there?
Also, if I am having problems after I correct the date, then and only then
do I physically go onto the mobo and move the jumpers over one prong, and
then put them back into the position they were at before I touched them? How
long do I keep it over onto the new position and then move it back onto the
original position?
Maybe lets wait until I get that far. well, no, I think if I get that
answered even though I don't need to do it, it would be good experience.
Any more help or ideas will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1


"philo" wrote:

>
> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
> news:76051807-3291-4B09-BEB1-0BCFC5724ABB@microsoft.com...
> > Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
> motherboard
> > battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated the RAM sticks,
> > changed the power supply, changed the video card, changed the IDE parallel
> > straps, changed the monitor, changed the hard drive, and finally took out
> the
> > motherboard and removed the heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and
> > checked the chip out. After all that it turns out the reason the PC
> stopped
> > working was the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again
> for
> > a little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
> > flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next day
> you
> > will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim out. Tell
> tail
> > signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking this new battery
> checker
> > device that I bought from Home Depot and I needed batteries to check to
> see
> > if the settings worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
> > Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
> > that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically
> do
> > anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?
> > Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> > Thanks, attilathehun1
>
>
> Nope,you don't have to do much more than just reset the date.
> Glad you got it working.
>
>
>

Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by Olórin

Olórin
Thu Jun 12 03:22:25 PDT 2008


"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:403C0239-6B0C-4A7A-AB0B-1A2ED617588C@microsoft.com...
> So, unless I'm having some type of problem, all I do it go into BIOS and
> configure the correct date, can't I fix the date from the system tray on
> the
> right hand bottom corner task bar? Or do I have to go into BIOS while it's
> booting up the first time and correct the date there?

Yes, no, yes.

> Also, if I am having problems after I correct the date,

Bridge, cross, if and when you come to it.

> then and only then
> do I physically go onto the mobo and move the jumpers over one prong, and
> then put them back into the position they were at before I touched them?
> How
> long do I keep it over onto the new position and then move it back onto
> the
> original position?
> Maybe lets wait until I get that far.

Yes! Just change the chuffing date and time for now! :-)

> well, no, I think if I get that
> answered even though I don't need to do it, it would be good experience.
> Any more help or ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Yes: if you want to work towards a working system, just set the date and
time and then see where you're at. If you want to start moving jumpers
around just as a learning experience, go ahead *afterwards*, and at your own
peril!

> Thanks, attilathehun1
> --

<snip>



Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by Don

Don
Thu Jun 12 04:31:08 PDT 2008

"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:403C0239-6B0C-4A7A-AB0B-1A2ED617588C@microsoft.com...

> So, unless I'm having some type of problem, all I do it go into BIOS and
> configure the correct date, can't I fix the date from the system tray on
the
> right hand bottom corner task bar? Or do I have to go into BIOS while it's
> booting up the first time and correct the date there?

Ans: any of these 3 methods ought to succeed.

> Also, if I am having problems after I correct the date, then and only
then
> do I physically go onto the mobo and move the jumpers over one prong, and
> then put them back into the position they were at before I touched them?
How
> long do I keep it over onto the new position and then move it back onto
the
> original position?

Answered in earlier post by MVP Mike Hall.

We note you suggest in both paras. you expect other problems.
If you hope for an answer, you must specify with details.
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)



Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by attilathehun1

attilathehun1
Thu Jun 12 10:23:02 PDT 2008

Ok, I finally got everything plugged back in, the original video card, and
the CPU heatsink and fan assembly and nothing on the monitor. The PC fired
up, the CPU fan and case fan were working. So, I changed the monitor back to
the original too, a Dell. Nope, same thing. LED light on the monitor yellow.
I reseated the RAM sticks and nope. It had something up on the monitor before
I installed the heatsink. Would the CMOS prevent the monitor from going to
green LED? Maybe I should switch over the jumpers one prong over and see what
happens?
I'm almost at the end of my rope after all this.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1


"Don Phillipson" wrote:

> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
> news:403C0239-6B0C-4A7A-AB0B-1A2ED617588C@microsoft.com...
>
> > So, unless I'm having some type of problem, all I do it go into BIOS and
> > configure the correct date, can't I fix the date from the system tray on
> the
> > right hand bottom corner task bar? Or do I have to go into BIOS while it's
> > booting up the first time and correct the date there?
>
> Ans: any of these 3 methods ought to succeed.
>
> > Also, if I am having problems after I correct the date, then and only
> then
> > do I physically go onto the mobo and move the jumpers over one prong, and
> > then put them back into the position they were at before I touched them?
> How
> > long do I keep it over onto the new position and then move it back onto
> the
> > original position?
>
> Answered in earlier post by MVP Mike Hall.
>
> We note you suggest in both paras. you expect other problems.
> If you hope for an answer, you must specify with details.
> --
> Don Phillipson
> Carlsbad Springs
> (Ottawa, Canada)
>
>
>

Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by attilathehun1

attilathehun1
Thu Jun 12 12:46:06 PDT 2008

Yeah, I changed the hard drive and still nothing on the monitor. The LED
light is yellow. I moved the jumpers on the mobo to default, I guess default,
I moved them over one prong, from prongs 1 to 2 to 2 to 3 or vice-versa.
Nothing happened then but worse. When I changed the jumper over one prong the
PC didn't even fire up. What do you think is the problem? Even the tech at
Dell told me to move the jumper on the motherboard and then after a while
move it back. I'm going to try another hard drive. I already did try another
hard drive, but lets try another drive.
You know, I already went through all this, but, at that time the PC wasn't
even firing up, so we've made some progress here.
I'm puzzled, I fired it up and the monitor came up and green, and then when
I installed the heatsink and fan assembly and plugged in the speakers and
fired it up, the monitor didn't work. Something might be shorting it out or
the power supply is bad. That's something I might try, another power supply.
Ok, lets get going here before it gets dark.
Thanks, attiathehun1
--
attilathehun1


"Mike Hall - MVP" wrote:

> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
> news:76051807-3291-4B09-BEB1-0BCFC5724ABB@microsoft.com...
> > Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
> > motherboard
> > battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated the RAM sticks,
> > changed the power supply, changed the video card, changed the IDE parallel
> > straps, changed the monitor, changed the hard drive, and finally took out
> > the
> > motherboard and removed the heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and
> > checked the chip out. After all that it turns out the reason the PC
> > stopped
> > working was the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again
> > for
> > a little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
> > flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next day
> > you
> > will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim out. Tell
> > tail
> > signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking this new battery
> > checker
> > device that I bought from Home Depot and I needed batteries to check to
> > see
> > if the settings worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
> > Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
> > that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically
> > do
> > anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?
> > Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> > Thanks, attilathehun1
> > --
> > attilathehun1
>
>
> The CMOS jumper is generally set on two of three pins by default in order to
> preserve BIOS settings. Moving the jumper to the 'other' pair will set the
> BIOS to factory default, after which the jumper is placed back on the
> 'running' pair of pins
>
> You don't have to move the jumper unless you have set some BIOS and the
> computer will not boot properly to Windows..
>
>
>
> --
> Mike Hall - MVP
> How to construct a good post..
> http://dts-l.com/goodpost.htm
> How to use the Microsoft Product Support Newsgroups..
> http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?pr=newswhelp&style=toc
> Mike's Window - My Blog..
> http://msmvps.com/blogs/mikehall/default.aspx
>
>
>
>
>

Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by attilathehun1

attilathehun1
Thu Jun 12 13:24:00 PDT 2008

Maybe I should take power supply reading on the devices because it is firing
up but the monitor isn't coming up. What and where should I touch the
multi-meter to what wires and what readings should come up?
This is the end. If I can't fix this thing now, I've had it.
Ok, the power supply is going to be checked.
Any more help will be greatly appreciated
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1


"Don Phillipson" wrote:

> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
> news:403C0239-6B0C-4A7A-AB0B-1A2ED617588C@microsoft.com...
>
> > So, unless I'm having some type of problem, all I do it go into BIOS and
> > configure the correct date, can't I fix the date from the system tray on
> the
> > right hand bottom corner task bar? Or do I have to go into BIOS while it's
> > booting up the first time and correct the date there?
>
> Ans: any of these 3 methods ought to succeed.
>
> > Also, if I am having problems after I correct the date, then and only
> then
> > do I physically go onto the mobo and move the jumpers over one prong, and
> > then put them back into the position they were at before I touched them?
> How
> > long do I keep it over onto the new position and then move it back onto
> the
> > original position?
>
> Answered in earlier post by MVP Mike Hall.
>
> We note you suggest in both paras. you expect other problems.
> If you hope for an answer, you must specify with details.
> --
> Don Phillipson
> Carlsbad Springs
> (Ottawa, Canada)
>
>
>

Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by peter

peter
Thu Jun 12 21:16:22 PDT 2008

On Board Video??......can you add a Video card and see if that will work??
What Mobo are we dealing with here.???
Or is it a Dell..??

peter

--
DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me
offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it.
If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to
me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate... ;-)


"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:EE2222D1-44A2-48F2-AF5D-83C54290D047@microsoft.com...
> Maybe I should take power supply reading on the devices because it is
> firing
> up but the monitor isn't coming up. What and where should I touch the
> multi-meter to what wires and what readings should come up?
> This is the end. If I can't fix this thing now, I've had it.
> Ok, the power supply is going to be checked.
> Any more help will be greatly appreciated
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> --
> attilathehun1
>
>
> "Don Phillipson" wrote:
>
>> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in
>> message
>> news:403C0239-6B0C-4A7A-AB0B-1A2ED617588C@microsoft.com...
>>
>> > So, unless I'm having some type of problem, all I do it go into BIOS
>> > and
>> > configure the correct date, can't I fix the date from the system tray
>> > on
>> the
>> > right hand bottom corner task bar? Or do I have to go into BIOS while
>> > it's
>> > booting up the first time and correct the date there?
>>
>> Ans: any of these 3 methods ought to succeed.
>>
>> > Also, if I am having problems after I correct the date, then and only
>> then
>> > do I physically go onto the mobo and move the jumpers over one prong,
>> > and
>> > then put them back into the position they were at before I touched
>> > them?
>> How
>> > long do I keep it over onto the new position and then move it back onto
>> the
>> > original position?
>>
>> Answered in earlier post by MVP Mike Hall.
>>
>> We note you suggest in both paras. you expect other problems.
>> If you hope for an answer, you must specify with details.
>> --
>> Don Phillipson
>> Carlsbad Springs
>> (Ottawa, Canada)
>>
>>
>>

Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by Xandros

Xandros
Fri Jun 13 06:56:16 PDT 2008

What do you mean when you say "I had something up on the monitor before I
installed the heatsink." ? Are you saying you ran the system without a heat
sink????? If so you could have damaged the cpu. Some will fry in a few
seconds if run with no heatsink.

Anyway you can try moving the BIOS jumper. But FIRST ensure you have turned
off the computer. As mentioned several times move the jumper and let it sit
for a 10 seconds or so and then move the jumper back before restarting the
computer.

--

Xandros


"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:33F9A0C3-56F0-4E80-A2F8-5BEEF31F362F@microsoft.com...
> Ok, I finally got everything plugged back in, the original video card, and
> the CPU heatsink and fan assembly and nothing on the monitor. The PC fired
> up, the CPU fan and case fan were working. So, I changed the monitor back
> to
> the original too, a Dell. Nope, same thing. LED light on the monitor
> yellow.
> I reseated the RAM sticks and nope. It had something up on the monitor
> before
> I installed the heatsink. Would the CMOS prevent the monitor from going to
> green LED? Maybe I should switch over the jumpers one prong over and see
> what
> happens?
> I'm almost at the end of my rope after all this.
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> --
> attilathehun1
>
>
> "Don Phillipson" wrote:
>
>> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in
>> message
>> news:403C0239-6B0C-4A7A-AB0B-1A2ED617588C@microsoft.com...
>>
>> > So, unless I'm having some type of problem, all I do it go into BIOS
>> > and
>> > configure the correct date, can't I fix the date from the system tray
>> > on
>> the
>> > right hand bottom corner task bar? Or do I have to go into BIOS while
>> > it's
>> > booting up the first time and correct the date there?
>>
>> Ans: any of these 3 methods ought to succeed.
>>
>> > Also, if I am having problems after I correct the date, then and only
>> then
>> > do I physically go onto the mobo and move the jumpers over one prong,
>> > and
>> > then put them back into the position they were at before I touched
>> > them?
>> How
>> > long do I keep it over onto the new position and then move it back onto
>> the
>> > original position?
>>
>> Answered in earlier post by MVP Mike Hall.
>>
>> We note you suggest in both paras. you expect other problems.
>> If you hope for an answer, you must specify with details.
>> --
>> Don Phillipson
>> Carlsbad Springs
>> (Ottawa, Canada)
>>
>>
>>



RE: CMOS after changing mobo battery by attilathehun1

attilathehun1
Fri Jun 13 11:22:00 PDT 2008

The motherboard is a M7VIG 400, that supports AMD processor. Maybe the
motherboard jumper on this motherboard can't be put back to default for some
reason. When I stick it onto the other 2 prongs or there are 3 prongs, so
when I put it from 1 and 2 to 2 and 3 or 2 and 3 to 1 and 2 or whatever, it
doesn't even fire up. When I stick it back onto the original prongs it fires
up, but then the monitor doesn't work.
I had a message up and ready to go, but my brother xed it out and now I'm
going over this again.
I just now installed a new video card, right out from the box, and it
didn't work either. I'm not going into the model #, I already went through a
bunch of model #s and the message got deleted. Maybe that's for the best.
Ok, a run down. I reseated the RAM sticks, and changed the power supply but
I have my ideas that it might be the power supply.
I'm going right now to check out the motherboard P1 connector to see if
that is the culprit. BRB and I hope this time someone doesn't delete out the
message. OK, brb.
-- The readings on the motherboard P1 connector are wrong, off 2 volts at
least. I'm taking the readings while the computer is turned off, but the
power supply is on the line, anotherwords in the ready position. I turn off
the power by flipping the switch to the O, and turn it on by flipping the
switch back to the ----. You see what I mean. Lets try the readings with the
power turned on. BRB Ok, the readings with the PC turned on are correct on
the molex connectors to the hard drive and CD drive. The P1 mobo connector is
reading 3.4 on the orange and 12.06 on yellow, 4.8 on white, 5.3 on red, but
the green says here it's supposed to be PS_On for the signal but my
multi-meter reads 66.8. The gray is supposed to say Power_Good and says
instead 47 volts. Maybe the multi-meter isn't capable of reading out
Power_Good and PS_ON. Other than those 2 pins.
Ok, I guess I'm ready to dump this PC motherboard and CPU, well, the
motherboard at least. Unless something is shorting out. That's a possibility.
I changed the monitor too, a couple of times, so it's not that . Maybe it's
the M7VIG 400 mobo that's the lemon.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
attilathehun1


"attilathehun1" wrote:

> Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032 motherboard
> battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated the RAM sticks,
> changed the power supply, changed the video card, changed the IDE parallel
> straps, changed the monitor, changed the hard drive, and finally took out the
> motherboard and removed the heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and
> checked the chip out. After all that it turns out the reason the PC stopped
> working was the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again for
> a little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
> flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next day you
> will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim out. Tell tail
> signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking this new battery checker
> device that I bought from Home Depot and I needed batteries to check to see
> if the settings worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
> Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
> that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically do
> anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> --
> attilathehun1

Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by peter

peter
Fri Jun 13 18:50:47 PDT 2008

That is a really old board....on some of these old boards one needs to find
the onboard video settings in the BIOS and take away all of the memory
allocated to it before installing an add on Video card...
It has a AGPx4 slot....does your video card match that..???
The main issue with compatibility is that 4X slots and cards have a normal
operating voltage of 1.5V and 8X run at 0.8v.
Ideally if you are going to use an 8X card you need a "universal" card that
will recognise that it is plugged into a 1.5V slot.
peter


--
DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me
offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it.
If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to
me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate... ;-)


"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:D64B2D49-C6B8-4C2C-9A5D-0681634439D9@microsoft.com...
> The motherboard is a M7VIG 400, that supports AMD processor. Maybe the
> motherboard jumper on this motherboard can't be put back to default for
> some
> reason. When I stick it onto the other 2 prongs or there are 3 prongs, so
> when I put it from 1 and 2 to 2 and 3 or 2 and 3 to 1 and 2 or whatever,
> it
> doesn't even fire up. When I stick it back onto the original prongs it
> fires
> up, but then the monitor doesn't work.
> I had a message up and ready to go, but my brother xed it out and now I'm
> going over this again.
> I just now installed a new video card, right out from the box, and it
> didn't work either. I'm not going into the model #, I already went through
> a
> bunch of model #s and the message got deleted. Maybe that's for the best.
> Ok, a run down. I reseated the RAM sticks, and changed the power supply
> but
> I have my ideas that it might be the power supply.
> I'm going right now to check out the motherboard P1 connector to see if
> that is the culprit. BRB and I hope this time someone doesn't delete out
> the
> message. OK, brb.
> -- The readings on the motherboard P1 connector are wrong, off 2 volts at
> least. I'm taking the readings while the computer is turned off, but the
> power supply is on the line, anotherwords in the ready position. I turn
> off
> the power by flipping the switch to the O, and turn it on by flipping the
> switch back to the ----. You see what I mean. Lets try the readings with
> the
> power turned on. BRB Ok, the readings with the PC turned on are correct on
> the molex connectors to the hard drive and CD drive. The P1 mobo connector
> is
> reading 3.4 on the orange and 12.06 on yellow, 4.8 on white, 5.3 on red,
> but
> the green says here it's supposed to be PS_On for the signal but my
> multi-meter reads 66.8. The gray is supposed to say Power_Good and says
> instead 47 volts. Maybe the multi-meter isn't capable of reading out
> Power_Good and PS_ON. Other than those 2 pins.
> Ok, I guess I'm ready to dump this PC motherboard and CPU, well, the
> motherboard at least. Unless something is shorting out. That's a
> possibility.
> I changed the monitor too, a couple of times, so it's not that . Maybe
> it's
> the M7VIG 400 mobo that's the lemon.
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> attilathehun1
>
>
> "attilathehun1" wrote:
>
>> Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
>> motherboard
>> battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated the RAM sticks,
>> changed the power supply, changed the video card, changed the IDE
>> parallel
>> straps, changed the monitor, changed the hard drive, and finally took out
>> the
>> motherboard and removed the heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and
>> checked the chip out. After all that it turns out the reason the PC
>> stopped
>> working was the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again
>> for
>> a little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
>> flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next day
>> you
>> will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim out. Tell
>> tail
>> signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking this new battery
>> checker
>> device that I bought from Home Depot and I needed batteries to check to
>> see
>> if the settings worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
>> Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
>> that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically
>> do
>> anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?
>> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>> Thanks, attilathehun1
>> --
>> attilathehun1


Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by peter

peter
Fri Jun 13 18:52:26 PDT 2008

here is website with a detailed explanation
http://www.playtool.com/pages/agpcompat/agp.html
peter

--
DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me
offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it.
If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to
me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate... ;-)


"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:D64B2D49-C6B8-4C2C-9A5D-0681634439D9@microsoft.com...
> The motherboard is a M7VIG 400, that supports AMD processor. Maybe the
> motherboard jumper on this motherboard can't be put back to default for
> some
> reason. When I stick it onto the other 2 prongs or there are 3 prongs, so
> when I put it from 1 and 2 to 2 and 3 or 2 and 3 to 1 and 2 or whatever,
> it
> doesn't even fire up. When I stick it back onto the original prongs it
> fires
> up, but then the monitor doesn't work.
> I had a message up and ready to go, but my brother xed it out and now I'm
> going over this again.
> I just now installed a new video card, right out from the box, and it
> didn't work either. I'm not going into the model #, I already went through
> a
> bunch of model #s and the message got deleted. Maybe that's for the best.
> Ok, a run down. I reseated the RAM sticks, and changed the power supply
> but
> I have my ideas that it might be the power supply.
> I'm going right now to check out the motherboard P1 connector to see if
> that is the culprit. BRB and I hope this time someone doesn't delete out
> the
> message. OK, brb.
> -- The readings on the motherboard P1 connector are wrong, off 2 volts at
> least. I'm taking the readings while the computer is turned off, but the
> power supply is on the line, anotherwords in the ready position. I turn
> off
> the power by flipping the switch to the O, and turn it on by flipping the
> switch back to the ----. You see what I mean. Lets try the readings with
> the
> power turned on. BRB Ok, the readings with the PC turned on are correct on
> the molex connectors to the hard drive and CD drive. The P1 mobo connector
> is
> reading 3.4 on the orange and 12.06 on yellow, 4.8 on white, 5.3 on red,
> but
> the green says here it's supposed to be PS_On for the signal but my
> multi-meter reads 66.8. The gray is supposed to say Power_Good and says
> instead 47 volts. Maybe the multi-meter isn't capable of reading out
> Power_Good and PS_ON. Other than those 2 pins.
> Ok, I guess I'm ready to dump this PC motherboard and CPU, well, the
> motherboard at least. Unless something is shorting out. That's a
> possibility.
> I changed the monitor too, a couple of times, so it's not that . Maybe
> it's
> the M7VIG 400 mobo that's the lemon.
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> attilathehun1
>
>
> "attilathehun1" wrote:
>
>> Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
>> motherboard
>> battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated the RAM sticks,
>> changed the power supply, changed the video card, changed the IDE
>> parallel
>> straps, changed the monitor, changed the hard drive, and finally took out
>> the
>> motherboard and removed the heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and
>> checked the chip out. After all that it turns out the reason the PC
>> stopped
>> working was the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again
>> for
>> a little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
>> flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next day
>> you
>> will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim out. Tell
>> tail
>> signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking this new battery
>> checker
>> device that I bought from Home Depot and I needed batteries to check to
>> see
>> if the settings worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
>> Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
>> that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically
>> do
>> anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?
>> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>> Thanks, attilathehun1
>> --
>> attilathehun1


Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by attilathehun1

attilathehun1
Sat Jun 14 11:01:01 PDT 2008

Ok, thanks for pointing that out to me. Yes this new card is an AGP 8x, but
wouldn't there be backward compatibility? Oh, I see what your saying, I'd
have to go into the BIOS and remove the old drivers or into device manager
and remove the old drivers. Which is it, BIOS or Device Manager where I"d
remove the old drivers? Ok, lets move on.
Why then wouldn't the old card that was in the PC work, that was working
the whole time? Ok, lets plug this old card into this PC and see if it still
works.
Ok, I'm going to have to shut down. I'll post another message to tell you
if the old card works. It's a 128 mb DDR Nvidia FX GeForce 5200.
Thanks, attilathehun1

--
attilathehun1


"peter" wrote:

> That is a really old board....on some of these old boards one needs to find
> the onboard video settings in the BIOS and take away all of the memory
> allocated to it before installing an add on Video card...
> It has a AGPx4 slot....does your video card match that..???
> The main issue with compatibility is that 4X slots and cards have a normal
> operating voltage of 1.5V and 8X run at 0.8v.
> Ideally if you are going to use an 8X card you need a "universal" card that
> will recognise that it is plugged into a 1.5V slot.
> peter
>
>
> --
> DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me
> offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it.
> If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to
> me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate... ;-)
>
>
> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
> news:D64B2D49-C6B8-4C2C-9A5D-0681634439D9@microsoft.com...
> > The motherboard is a M7VIG 400, that supports AMD processor. Maybe the
> > motherboard jumper on this motherboard can't be put back to default for
> > some
> > reason. When I stick it onto the other 2 prongs or there are 3 prongs, so
> > when I put it from 1 and 2 to 2 and 3 or 2 and 3 to 1 and 2 or whatever,
> > it
> > doesn't even fire up. When I stick it back onto the original prongs it
> > fires
> > up, but then the monitor doesn't work.
> > I had a message up and ready to go, but my brother xed it out and now I'm
> > going over this again.
> > I just now installed a new video card, right out from the box, and it
> > didn't work either. I'm not going into the model #, I already went through
> > a
> > bunch of model #s and the message got deleted. Maybe that's for the best.
> > Ok, a run down. I reseated the RAM sticks, and changed the power supply
> > but
> > I have my ideas that it might be the power supply.
> > I'm going right now to check out the motherboard P1 connector to see if
> > that is the culprit. BRB and I hope this time someone doesn't delete out
> > the
> > message. OK, brb.
> > -- The readings on the motherboard P1 connector are wrong, off 2 volts at
> > least. I'm taking the readings while the computer is turned off, but the
> > power supply is on the line, anotherwords in the ready position. I turn
> > off
> > the power by flipping the switch to the O, and turn it on by flipping the
> > switch back to the ----. You see what I mean. Lets try the readings with
> > the
> > power turned on. BRB Ok, the readings with the PC turned on are correct on
> > the molex connectors to the hard drive and CD drive. The P1 mobo connector
> > is
> > reading 3.4 on the orange and 12.06 on yellow, 4.8 on white, 5.3 on red,
> > but
> > the green says here it's supposed to be PS_On for the signal but my
> > multi-meter reads 66.8. The gray is supposed to say Power_Good and says
> > instead 47 volts. Maybe the multi-meter isn't capable of reading out
> > Power_Good and PS_ON. Other than those 2 pins.
> > Ok, I guess I'm ready to dump this PC motherboard and CPU, well, the
> > motherboard at least. Unless something is shorting out. That's a
> > possibility.
> > I changed the monitor too, a couple of times, so it's not that . Maybe
> > it's
> > the M7VIG 400 mobo that's the lemon.
> > Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> > Thanks, attilathehun1
> > attilathehun1
> >
> >
> > "attilathehun1" wrote:
> >
> >> Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
> >> motherboard
> >> battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated the RAM sticks,
> >> changed the power supply, changed the video card, changed the IDE
> >> parallel
> >> straps, changed the monitor, changed the hard drive, and finally took out
> >> the
> >> motherboard and removed the heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and
> >> checked the chip out. After all that it turns out the reason the PC
> >> stopped
> >> working was the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again
> >> for
> >> a little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
> >> flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next day
> >> you
> >> will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim out. Tell
> >> tail
> >> signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking this new battery
> >> checker
> >> device that I bought from Home Depot and I needed batteries to check to
> >> see
> >> if the settings worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
> >> Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
> >> that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically
> >> do
> >> anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?
> >> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> >> Thanks, attilathehun1
> >> --
> >> attilathehun1
>

Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by attilathehun1

attilathehun1
Sat Jun 14 12:03:00 PDT 2008

First off, I remember now it was in the add/remove programs where you
uninstall the old video drivers, I think. But I can check that out later.
Lets move on.
Ok, this PC a HP Pavilion 503n doesn't come with an AGP slot. All the
better I think, all I have to do is load up the drivers for that GeForce FX
5200 and mess things up here so my brother has a cow.
Ok, I dug into my box and found a brand new graphics card I bought probably
3 years ago. Brand new still in the wrappers. It's an ATI Radeon 9800 Pro and
yes it has AGP 8x/4x. I know this card works. It's brand new too, but bought
3 years ago so there is the compatibility.
Let me install it and get back to you. Wait, hold on, brb, I'll do it now.
I'm really getting pissed or frustrated here. I put it onto the VGA
connector and the keyboard lights didn't even come on, and then I switched it
back to the DVI connector, which I've always been using and the keyboard
lights came up when I fired it up. Still nothing on the monitor, though. Let
me give it another shot with the jumper with it plugged back into the DVI. I
tried it with the VGA and nothing. BRB
Ok, nothing. I'm just really fed up with this motherboard and whole mess.
I've run the jumpers every which way but loose. NOTHING on the monitor. At
least, it's firing up, but I could've told you it's not the card. I knew the
128 DDR Nvidia GeForce FX 5200 worked.
What do you think is the next solution. Trash the motherboard. I did buy
another mobo from newegg. com before I read the reviews and I regret it. I
did get a free 512 stick of DDR 400 RAM thrown in free. It's like I bought
the RAM and got the mobo free. I paid about $55 bucks out the door for all.
Ok, here's the model of the mobo, it's an Elitegroup GF6100-M754 mobo/CPU
combo. There is no heatsink and fan assembly included. That's why I haven't
tried that.
Wait, I'm going to give this a shot. Oh, but I don't think there is a AGP
slot on the board. It's a PCI. I give up.
Tell me what you think.
Thanks, attilathehun1
Hold on a second, I just went back and read your message about the 8x and
4x AGP and it bugs me. Anotherwords, this AGP 8x model ATI Radeon X 1050
card, bought 2 weeks ago from Best Buy, won't ever be able to be used on the
MIGV7 400 motherboard? If that's the case then the manufacturer is doing on
purpose. Someone buys a video card, sticks it into his draw for a year, then
finds out it's not compatible anymore with his new motherboard. There should
be backward compatibility.
Ok, back to the install of this new card. BRB
I"m right in the procedure of installing it, and I've always used the CRT
monitor on the DVI connector. Anotherwords, I have an asaptor DVI to VGA and
I always use it if there is a DVI connector on the card regardless if it's a
flat panel or CRT monitor. Is that correct, or I don't get any better results
and should just plug it straight into the VGA connector?
Ok, back to the install, brb.

--
attilathehun1


"peter" wrote:

> here is website with a detailed explanation
> http://www.playtool.com/pages/agpcompat/agp.html
> peter
>
> --
> DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me
> offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it.
> If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to
> me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate... ;-)
>
>
> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
> news:D64B2D49-C6B8-4C2C-9A5D-0681634439D9@microsoft.com...
> > The motherboard is a M7VIG 400, that supports AMD processor. Maybe the
> > motherboard jumper on this motherboard can't be put back to default for
> > some
> > reason. When I stick it onto the other 2 prongs or there are 3 prongs, so
> > when I put it from 1 and 2 to 2 and 3 or 2 and 3 to 1 and 2 or whatever,
> > it
> > doesn't even fire up. When I stick it back onto the original prongs it
> > fires
> > up, but then the monitor doesn't work.
> > I had a message up and ready to go, but my brother xed it out and now I'm
> > going over this again.
> > I just now installed a new video card, right out from the box, and it
> > didn't work either. I'm not going into the model #, I already went through
> > a
> > bunch of model #s and the message got deleted. Maybe that's for the best.
> > Ok, a run down. I reseated the RAM sticks, and changed the power supply
> > but
> > I have my ideas that it might be the power supply.
> > I'm going right now to check out the motherboard P1 connector to see if
> > that is the culprit. BRB and I hope this time someone doesn't delete out
> > the
> > message. OK, brb.
> > -- The readings on the motherboard P1 connector are wrong, off 2 volts at
> > least. I'm taking the readings while the computer is turned off, but the
> > power supply is on the line, anotherwords in the ready position. I turn
> > off
> > the power by flipping the switch to the O, and turn it on by flipping the
> > switch back to the ----. You see what I mean. Lets try the readings with
> > the
> > power turned on. BRB Ok, the readings with the PC turned on are correct on
> > the molex connectors to the hard drive and CD drive. The P1 mobo connector
> > is
> > reading 3.4 on the orange and 12.06 on yellow, 4.8 on white, 5.3 on red,
> > but
> > the green says here it's supposed to be PS_On for the signal but my
> > multi-meter reads 66.8. The gray is supposed to say Power_Good and says
> > instead 47 volts. Maybe the multi-meter isn't capable of reading out
> > Power_Good and PS_ON. Other than those 2 pins.
> > Ok, I guess I'm ready to dump this PC motherboard and CPU, well, the
> > motherboard at least. Unless something is shorting out. That's a
> > possibility.
> > I changed the monitor too, a couple of times, so it's not that . Maybe
> > it's
> > the M7VIG 400 mobo that's the lemon.
> > Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> > Thanks, attilathehun1
> > attilathehun1
> >
> >
> > "attilathehun1" wrote:
> >
> >> Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
> >> motherboard
> >> battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated the RAM sticks,
> >> changed the power supply, changed the video card, changed the IDE
> >> parallel
> >> straps, changed the monitor, changed the hard drive, and finally took out
> >> the
> >> motherboard and removed the heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and
> >> checked the chip out. After all that it turns out the reason the PC
> >> stopped
> >> working was the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again
> >> for
> >> a little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
> >> flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next day
> >> you
> >> will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim out. Tell
> >> tail
> >> signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking this new battery
> >> checker
> >> device that I bought from Home Depot and I needed batteries to check to
> >> see
> >> if the settings worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
> >> Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
> >> that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically
> >> do
> >> anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?
> >> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> >> Thanks, attilathehun1
> >> --
> >> attilathehun1
>

Re: CMOS after changing mobo battery by peter

peter
Sat Jun 14 14:59:17 PDT 2008

The Normal way if your Video worked.........

You go to Device manager and uninstall the old drivers...
You reboot and enter the BIOS to take memory allocation away from the build
in Video...you check for a setting that says which Video to use
some have that some dont
safe settings
You shut down and Install new Video Card...best to use VGA connection at
first..
If it actually starts and shows on Monitor then you install drivers for new
Video card...

IF you Use an AGP card look at the website they have pics of the connectors
for AGP4x versus 8x...and what to look for on your card.
Some not all 8x cards can work in a 4x AGP slot............
IF your using a PCI card..none of that matters.

If none of the above work...get a bigger paper route and save up for a newer
mobo...which will lead to a newer Processor...newer Ram...
The old Socket A boards are getting harder and harder to find...

peter

--
DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me
offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it.
If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to
me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate... ;-)


"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:ADA90890-17D2-40EF-B323-7DB19067B476@microsoft.com...
> Ok, thanks for pointing that out to me. Yes this new card is an AGP 8x,
> but
> wouldn't there be backward compatibility? Oh, I see what your saying, I'd
> have to go into the BIOS and remove the old drivers or into device manager
> and remove the old drivers. Which is it, BIOS or Device Manager where I"d
> remove the old drivers? Ok, lets move on.
> Why then wouldn't the old card that was in the PC work, that was working
> the whole time? Ok, lets plug this old card into this PC and see if it
> still
> works.
> Ok, I'm going to have to shut down. I'll post another message to tell you
> if the old card works. It's a 128 mb DDR Nvidia FX GeForce 5200.
> Thanks, attilathehun1
>
> --
> attilathehun1
>
>
> "peter" wrote:
>
>> That is a really old board....on some of these old boards one needs to
>> find
>> the onboard video settings in the BIOS and take away all of the memory
>> allocated to it before installing an add on Video card...
>> It has a AGPx4 slot....does your video card match that..???
>> The main issue with compatibility is that 4X slots and cards have a
>> normal
>> operating voltage of 1.5V and 8X run at 0.8v.
>> Ideally if you are going to use an 8X card you need a "universal" card
>> that
>> will recognise that it is plugged into a 1.5V slot.
>> peter
>>
>>
>> --
>> DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me
>> offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it.
>> If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to
>> me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate... ;-)
>>
>>
>> "attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in
>> message
>> news:D64B2D49-C6B8-4C2C-9A5D-0681634439D9@microsoft.com...
>> > The motherboard is a M7VIG 400, that supports AMD processor. Maybe the
>> > motherboard jumper on this motherboard can't be put back to default for
>> > some
>> > reason. When I stick it onto the other 2 prongs or there are 3 prongs,
>> > so
>> > when I put it from 1 and 2 to 2 and 3 or 2 and 3 to 1 and 2 or
>> > whatever,
>> > it
>> > doesn't even fire up. When I stick it back onto the original pr