Would your computer stop working all of a sudden one day if the motherboard
battery, the 2032 organize battery I think, stops working? The computer
worked when I changed the monitor but then it stopped working shortly after
that. Then it didn't matter what monitor I tried, it just wouldn't fire up. I
checked everything almost, reseated the RAM, checked the power supply, tried
another video card, checked the hard drive, used different parallel straps. I
mean I went through all I could think of, except the motherboard battery. By
accident I discovered that it wasn't working. Do you think that could be the
problem? Is that a common problem of a PC going on the blink? Would it start
up after a rest and then finally shut down? It seems like the battery on my
flashlights get better once they aren't on, but once you turn the flashlight
back on, the flashlight dims out.
I'm thinking about putting the whole PC back together now and trying out a
battery that I know works. Ok, this is the truth. I took out the battery and
changed it with another one and I think the one I changed it with was bad.
I'm not sure, but I know I did change the battery. I was trying out my
battery tester and found out the right option on the tester to test 3 and 1
1/2 volt batteries. So, I'm not sure if the original battery I took out was
good or bad. That's why I'm asking if it's a common problem.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1

Re: Battery failure by JS

JS
Mon Jun 09 20:15:53 PDT 2008

Go buy a new battery and replace what's in your computer with the new one!

You will most likely need to configure the BIOS settings when you boot after
replacing the battery from the defaults to what works best for your PC.

JS

"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:AA62D50A-CAA8-4524-B620-9A338DE45CE2@microsoft.com...
> Would your computer stop working all of a sudden one day if the
> motherboard
> battery, the 2032 organize battery I think, stops working? The computer
> worked when I changed the monitor but then it stopped working shortly
> after
> that. Then it didn't matter what monitor I tried, it just wouldn't fire
> up. I
> checked everything almost, reseated the RAM, checked the power supply,
> tried
> another video card, checked the hard drive, used different parallel
> straps. I
> mean I went through all I could think of, except the motherboard battery.
> By
> accident I discovered that it wasn't working. Do you think that could be
> the
> problem? Is that a common problem of a PC going on the blink? Would it
> start
> up after a rest and then finally shut down? It seems like the battery on
> my
> flashlights get better once they aren't on, but once you turn the
> flashlight
> back on, the flashlight dims out.
> I'm thinking about putting the whole PC back together now and trying out a
> battery that I know works. Ok, this is the truth. I took out the battery
> and
> changed it with another one and I think the one I changed it with was bad.
> I'm not sure, but I know I did change the battery. I was trying out my
> battery tester and found out the right option on the tester to test 3 and
> 1
> 1/2 volt batteries. So, I'm not sure if the original battery I took out
> was
> good or bad. That's why I'm asking if it's a common problem.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> --
> attilathehun1



Re: Battery failure by VanguardLH

VanguardLH
Mon Jun 09 20:25:03 PDT 2008

"attilathehun1" wrote in
<news:AA62D50A-CAA8-4524-B620-9A338DE45CE2@microsoft.com>:

> Would your computer stop working all of a sudden one day if the motherboard
> battery, the 2032 organize battery I think, stops working?

Yes. I've had mobos that won't boot with either a dead or missing CMOS
battery. My recollection was that it was an ASUS A7N8X mobo.

> I took out the battery and
> changed it with another one and I think the one I changed it with was bad.

Buy a new one. They have a 5-year life after manufacture. You don't
how long it has been in shipping and sitting on various shelves before
you bought it. Most should have an expiration date printed on the
packaging to let you know how much of a lifespan to expect.

> I'm not sure, but I know I did change the battery. I was trying out my
> battery tester and found out the right option on the tester to test 3 and 1
> 1/2 volt batteries.

3V is the voltage for a coin cell battery, like the CR-2032. While
voltage does provide an indicator that the battery may be useful, it
doesn't guarantee usability. If voltage severely drops under load
(because the battery cannot supply the current draw) then it is
worthless. The CMOS circuit draws a trickle charge that doesn't put
much of a load on the coin cell battery. Buy a NEW battery to retest.
Cost is maybe $1 to $5 apiece.

Re: Battery failure by jsoreno

jsoreno
Tue Jun 10 02:28:07 PDT 2008


Yes go ahead buy a new battery. Just make sure you know how what to d
with the BIOS. Good luc


--
jsoreno

Re: Battery failure by Twayne

Twayne
Tue Jun 10 09:10:18 PDT 2008

> Would your computer stop working all of a sudden one day if the
> motherboard battery, the 2032 organize battery I think, stops
> working?

Yes, that's quite possible. It would depend on a few things, but it's
definitely possible the CMOS settings were lost.
Boot to the System Settings/CMOS Settings/BIOS settings, whatever it's
called on your machine, and write down each setting in case you have to
put them back.
Then, there will be a "load default" choice somewhere; click that
then save and exit and continue the boot.

The computer worked when I changed the monitor but then it
> stopped working shortly after that.

But that doesn't sound like a monitor problem.

Then it didn't matter what
> monitor I tried, it just wouldn't fire up.

Did you try it from Safe Mode? That uses a standard driver that should
work with any monitor, just maybe not a very good looking screen, but it
will work if there is nothing wrong elsewhere.

I checked everything
> almost, reseated the RAM, checked the power supply, tried another
> video card, checked the hard drive, used different parallel straps.

Parallel straps? What the heck do you mean?

I
> mean I went through all I could think of, except the motherboard
> battery. By accident I discovered that it wasn't working.

What äccident" was that? See above: or try starting in Safe Mode.

Do you
> think that could be the problem?

Possible, not likely, IMO.

Is that a common problem of a PC
> going on the blink?

Not the way you describe it, but it could be possible. Just not likely
IMO. Can't hurt to try a known good battery though.

Would it start up after a rest and then finally
> shut down?

Who knows? Try it and see.

It seems like the battery on my flashlights get better
> once they aren't on, but once you turn the flashlight back on, the
> flashlight dims out.

Irrelevant. Different battery, technology, materials, characteristics
and use. No comparison. This kind of battery reaches a cutoff point
and quits; period.
The most obvious symptom of a bad battery is that the computer won't
keep the system date correctly while the computer is turned off. If it
loses time when the computer is turned off, the battery is 99% likely
dead.

> I'm thinking about putting the whole PC back together now and trying
> out a battery that I know works.

Gopher it.

Ok, this is the truth. I took out
> the battery and changed it with another one and I think the one I
> changed it with was bad. I'm not sure, but I know I did change the
> battery. I was trying out my battery tester and found out the right
> option on the tester to test 3 and 1 1/2 volt batteries. So, I'm not
> sure if the original battery I took out was good or bad. That's why
> I'm asking if it's a common problem.

Measuring the battery with a meter isn't indicative of the battery's
health under load. Even a dead battery can show a healthy output
voltage out of its circuit. Measuring it is useless; just change it out
with a known good battery.

I could be misreading you, but with a lot of the things you've done, if
you didn't use good static protection while you worked on the computer,
you could have damaged some of the cktry in the computer. Thinking you
did it "safely" because you never drew a static arc from your fingers to
anything is NOT right! Static voltages that can damage today's
electronic ckts can be so low that they would not create visible arcs in
any way. Unless you observed good static procedures, you could, not
did, have damaged other cktry in the computer.

Get to Safe Mode for ALL of your testing until you have a working
system. THEN try to get it to run in standard mode.

HTH

Twayne

> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks, attilathehun1




Re: Battery failure by attilathehun1

attilathehun1
Tue Jun 10 12:01:01 PDT 2008

Oh darn it, I knew I should've wrote down the settings on the BIOS. Isn't
there a default settings on the BIOS that I can hit? So the PC will go back
into the factory mode settings from the manufacturer. I've gone into BIOS
alot of times but I can't remember what the settings were for this PC. This
PC is a DIY that I built about 3 years ago. I bought the CPU and mobo from
CompUSA. It's a AMD processor chip Socket A EV6 bus 462 Pin ZIF and the
motherboard is a M7VIG 400 that supports AMD processors.
Any response will be gladly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun
--
attilathehun1


"Twayne" wrote:

> > Would your computer stop working all of a sudden one day if the
> > motherboard battery, the 2032 organize battery I think, stops
> > working?
>
> Yes, that's quite possible. It would depend on a few things, but it's
> definitely possible the CMOS settings were lost.
> Boot to the System Settings/CMOS Settings/BIOS settings, whatever it's
> called on your machine, and write down each setting in case you have to
> put them back.
> Then, there will be a "load default" choice somewhere; click that
> then save and exit and continue the boot.
>
> The computer worked when I changed the monitor but then it
> > stopped working shortly after that.
>
> But that doesn't sound like a monitor problem.
>
> Then it didn't matter what
> > monitor I tried, it just wouldn't fire up.
>
> Did you try it from Safe Mode? That uses a standard driver that should
> work with any monitor, just maybe not a very good looking screen, but it
> will work if there is nothing wrong elsewhere.
>
> I checked everything
> > almost, reseated the RAM, checked the power supply, tried another
> > video card, checked the hard drive, used different parallel straps.
>
> Parallel straps? What the heck do you mean?
>
> I
> > mean I went through all I could think of, except the motherboard
> > battery. By accident I discovered that it wasn't working.
>
> What äccident" was that? See above: or try starting in Safe Mode.
>
> Do you
> > think that could be the problem?
>
> Possible, not likely, IMO.
>
> Is that a common problem of a PC
> > going on the blink?
>
> Not the way you describe it, but it could be possible. Just not likely
> IMO. Can't hurt to try a known good battery though.
>
> Would it start up after a rest and then finally
> > shut down?
>
> Who knows? Try it and see.
>
> It seems like the battery on my flashlights get better
> > once they aren't on, but once you turn the flashlight back on, the
> > flashlight dims out.
>
> Irrelevant. Different battery, technology, materials, characteristics
> and use. No comparison. This kind of battery reaches a cutoff point
> and quits; period.
> The most obvious symptom of a bad battery is that the computer won't
> keep the system date correctly while the computer is turned off. If it
> loses time when the computer is turned off, the battery is 99% likely
> dead.
>
> > I'm thinking about putting the whole PC back together now and trying
> > out a battery that I know works.
>
> Gopher it.
>
> Ok, this is the truth. I took out
> > the battery and changed it with another one and I think the one I
> > changed it with was bad. I'm not sure, but I know I did change the
> > battery. I was trying out my battery tester and found out the right
> > option on the tester to test 3 and 1 1/2 volt batteries. So, I'm not
> > sure if the original battery I took out was good or bad. That's why
> > I'm asking if it's a common problem.
>
> Measuring the battery with a meter isn't indicative of the battery's
> health under load. Even a dead battery can show a healthy output
> voltage out of its circuit. Measuring it is useless; just change it out
> with a known good battery.
>
> I could be misreading you, but with a lot of the things you've done, if
> you didn't use good static protection while you worked on the computer,
> you could have damaged some of the cktry in the computer. Thinking you
> did it "safely" because you never drew a static arc from your fingers to
> anything is NOT right! Static voltages that can damage today's
> electronic ckts can be so low that they would not create visible arcs in
> any way. Unless you observed good static procedures, you could, not
> did, have damaged other cktry in the computer.
>
> Get to Safe Mode for ALL of your testing until you have a working
> system. THEN try to get it to run in standard mode.
>
> HTH
>
> Twayne
>
> > Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks, attilathehun1
>
>
>
>

RE: Battery failure by attilathehun1

attilathehun1
Tue Jun 10 12:59:02 PDT 2008

Well, I tried to fire it up, without putting the heatsink and fan back onto
the CPU, and nothing happened. I smelt something like burning wires for a
second. Is that because I didn't have anything on the CPU yet? I mean why
install the heatsink and fan assembly just to have to take it apart again.
This PC has been a real nightmare. All I can figure it's the motherboard or
CPU chip that's finally given out.
Ok, if something I've done wrong here shoots out at you. please don't feel
to keep it back from telling what you think is wrong with the procedure.
Thanks,
attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1


"attilathehun1" wrote:

> Would your computer stop working all of a sudden one day if the motherboard
> battery, the 2032 organize battery I think, stops working? The computer
> worked when I changed the monitor but then it stopped working shortly after
> that. Then it didn't matter what monitor I tried, it just wouldn't fire up. I
> checked everything almost, reseated the RAM, checked the power supply, tried
> another video card, checked the hard drive, used different parallel straps. I
> mean I went through all I could think of, except the motherboard battery. By
> accident I discovered that it wasn't working. Do you think that could be the
> problem? Is that a common problem of a PC going on the blink? Would it start
> up after a rest and then finally shut down? It seems like the battery on my
> flashlights get better once they aren't on, but once you turn the flashlight
> back on, the flashlight dims out.
> I'm thinking about putting the whole PC back together now and trying out a
> battery that I know works. Ok, this is the truth. I took out the battery and
> changed it with another one and I think the one I changed it with was bad.
> I'm not sure, but I know I did change the battery. I was trying out my
> battery tester and found out the right option on the tester to test 3 and 1
> 1/2 volt batteries. So, I'm not sure if the original battery I took out was
> good or bad. That's why I'm asking if it's a common problem.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> --
> attilathehun1

Re: Battery failure by gls858

gls858
Tue Jun 10 14:00:05 PDT 2008

attilathehun1 wrote:
> Well, I tried to fire it up, without putting the heatsink and fan back onto
> the CPU, and nothing happened. I smelt something like burning wires for a
> second. Is that because I didn't have anything on the CPU yet? I mean why
> install the heatsink and fan assembly just to have to take it apart again.
> This PC has been a real nightmare. All I can figure it's the motherboard or
> CPU chip that's finally given out.
> Ok, if something I've done wrong here shoots out at you. please don't feel
> to keep it back from telling what you think is wrong with the procedure.
> Thanks,
> attilathehun1

Yes. The thing you did wrong was not putting the heat sink and fan back
on. Most likley you fried the processor. It doesn't take long.

gls858

Re: Battery failure by Nepatsfan

Nepatsfan
Tue Jun 10 14:07:12 PDT 2008

"attilathehun1" <attilathehun1@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:AA62D50A-CAA8-4524-B620-9A338DE45CE2@microsoft.com...
> Would your computer stop working all of a sudden one day if the motherboard
> battery, the 2032 organize battery I think, stops working? The computer
> worked when I changed the monitor but then it stopped working shortly after
> that. Then it didn't matter what monitor I tried, it just wouldn't fire up. I
> checked everything almost, reseated the RAM, checked the power supply, tried
> another video card, checked the hard drive, used different parallel straps. I
> mean I went through all I could think of, except the motherboard battery. By
> accident I discovered that it wasn't working. Do you think that could be the
> problem? Is that a common problem of a PC going on the blink? Would it start
> up after a rest and then finally shut down? It seems like the battery on my
> flashlights get better once they aren't on, but once you turn the flashlight
> back on, the flashlight dims out.
> I'm thinking about putting the whole PC back together now and trying out a
> battery that I know works. Ok, this is the truth. I took out the battery and
> changed it with another one and I think the one I changed it with was bad.
> I'm not sure, but I know I did change the battery. I was trying out my
> battery tester and found out the right option on the tester to test 3 and 1
> 1/2 volt batteries. So, I'm not sure if the original battery I took out was
> good or bad. That's why I'm asking if it's a common problem.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> --
> attilathehun1


I don't see any mention of testing your power supply. Either swap it out with a
known good unit or get a multi-meter and start testing voltages.

Good luck

Nepatsfan



Re: Battery failure by VanguardLH

VanguardLH
Tue Jun 10 14:54:36 PDT 2008

"attilathehun1" wrote in
<news:D46EA6D4-7D24-4C22-A73B-A805FC890CE1@microsoft.com>:

> Well, I tried to fire it up, without putting the heatsink and fan back onto
> the CPU, and nothing happened. I smelt something like burning wires for a
> second. Is that because I didn't have anything on the CPU yet? I mean why
> install the heatsink and fan assembly just to have to take it apart again.
> This PC has been a real nightmare. All I can figure it's the motherboard or
> CPU chip that's finally given out.
> Ok, if something I've done wrong here shoots out at you. please don't feel
> to keep it back from telling what you think is wrong with the procedure.
> Thanks,
> attilathehun1

Considering your other prolonged and overly hand-holding thread asking
how to install the Zalman heatsink and fan, and now that you just fried
the CPU and/or scorched the motherboard, you really should not be
attempting to fabricate your own computer from parts. Buy one that was
pre-built by someone else.

By the way, the battery and now your CPU overheat (caused by improper
assembly) are hardware issues, not OS issues. You should post in
hardware groups to ask these types of questions, like:

microsoft.public.windowsxp.hardware
(Windows XP is included in the title but it is still a hardware group)

alt.comp.hardware[.*]

Re: Battery failure by VanguardLH

VanguardLH
Tue Jun 10 15:00:10 PDT 2008

"Nepatsfan" wrote in <news:umMP03zyIHA.4816@TK2MSFTNGP03.phx.gbl>:

> "attilathehun1" wrote ...
>> Would your computer stop working all of a sudden one day if the motherboard
>> battery, the 2032 organize battery I think, stops working? The computer
>> worked when I changed the monitor but then it stopped working shortly after
>> that. Then it didn't matter what monitor I tried, it just wouldn't fire up. I
>> checked everything almost, reseated the RAM, checked the power supply, tried
>> another video card, checked the hard drive, used different parallel straps. I
>> mean I went through all I could think of, except the motherboard battery. By
>> accident I discovered that it wasn't working. Do you think that could be the
>> problem? Is that a common problem of a PC going on the blink? Would it start
>> up after a rest and then finally shut down? It seems like the battery on my
>> flashlights get better once they aren't on, but once you turn the flashlight
>> back on, the flashlight dims out.
>> I'm thinking about putting the whole PC back together now and trying out a
>> battery that I know works. Ok, this is the truth. I took out the battery and
>> changed it with another one and I think the one I changed it with was bad.
>> I'm not sure, but I know I did change the battery. I was trying out my
>> battery tester and found out the right option on the tester to test 3 and 1
>> 1/2 volt batteries. So, I'm not sure if the original battery I took out was
>> good or bad. That's why I'm asking if it's a common problem.
>> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> I don't see any mention of testing your power supply. Either swap it out with a
> known good unit or get a multi-meter and start testing voltages.

From his other post on repeatedly prodding on every detail on how to
install a Zalman heatsink and fan (HSF), and from his other post here
where he admits to not attaching the HSF (and from his other post of not
wanting to "waste" any thermal paste although he likely has a tube that
allows 5, or more, applications), my guess is that he didn't bother to
attach the HSF (with thermal compound) and the BIOS is aborting the POST
because the CPU overheats beyound its configured default temperature
threshold or he didn't connect the fan to the CPU header on the mobo so
the BIOS sees no RPM so it aborts the POST.

Considering he powered up without the HSF (with thermal paste) and that
he smelt it burn afterwards, he probably just burnt his bridge and can't
go back until he replaces the damaged parts (CPU and perhaps the mobo).

Re: Battery failure by Twayne

Twayne
Tue Jun 10 17:00:21 PDT 2008

> Oh darn it, I knew I should've wrote down the settings on the BIOS.
> Isn't there a default settings on the BIOS that I can hit? So the PC
> will go back into the factory mode settings from the manufacturer.

There usually is, yes. But being a diy project, it's hard to say
whether the defaults will be enough; another reason to work in Safe Mode
too, at least initially. Another reason to be paring down to essentials
(break it into smallest pieces you can) and work your way upwards.
ALWAYS note any non-standard BIOS settings, especially if the defaults
will screw things up.
The mobo usually has a jumper or short-pads to reset the BIOS stuff
too. Your specs will have that.
Don't recall for sure, but I seem to recall you mentioning somewhere
that the BIOS you had wasn't known to be the right one? That you should
be able to work out from your specs, so at least it's manageable. very
important to know; I wouldn't skip any steps if i could help it.

Afraid I can't help beyond that. Any chance you have your old build
notes stashed away someplace?


Regards,



> I've gone into BIOS alot of times but I can't remember what the
> settings were for this PC. This PC is a DIY that I built about 3
> years ago. I bought the CPU and mobo from CompUSA. It's a AMD
> processor chip Socket A EV6 bus 462 Pin ZIF and the motherboard is a
> M7VIG 400 that supports AMD processors. Any response will be gladly
> appreciated. Thanks,
> attilathehun
>
>>> Would your computer stop working all of a sudden one day if the
>>> motherboard battery, the 2032 organize battery I think, stops
>>> working?
>>
>> Yes, that's quite possible. It would depend on a few things, but
>> it's definitely possible the CMOS settings were lost.
>> Boot to the System Settings/CMOS Settings/BIOS settings, whatever
>> it's called on your machine, and write down each setting in case you
>> have to put them back.
>> Then, there will be a "load default" choice somewhere; click that
>> then save and exit and continue the boot.
>>
>> The computer worked when I changed the monitor but then it
>>> stopped working shortly after that.
>>
>> But that doesn't sound like a monitor problem.
>>
>> Then it didn't matter what
>>> monitor I tried, it just wouldn't fire up.
>>
>> Did you try it from Safe Mode? That uses a standard driver that
>> should work with any monitor, just maybe not a very good looking
>> screen, but it will work if there is nothing wrong elsewhere.
>>
>> I checked everything
>>> almost, reseated the RAM, checked the power supply, tried another
>>> video card, checked the hard drive, used different parallel straps.
>>
>> Parallel straps? What the heck do you mean?
>>
>> I
>>> mean I went through all I could think of, except the motherboard
>>> battery. By accident I discovered that it wasn't working.
>>
>> What äccident" was that? See above: or try starting in Safe Mode.
>>
>> Do you
>>> think that could be the problem?
>>
>> Possible, not likely, IMO.
>>
>> Is that a common problem of a PC
>>> going on the blink?
>>
>> Not the way you describe it, but it could be possible. Just not
>> likely IMO. Can't hurt to try a known good battery though.
>>
>> Would it start up after a rest and then finally
>>> shut down?
>>
>> Who knows? Try it and see.
>>
>> It seems like the battery on my flashlights get better
>>> once they aren't on, but once you turn the flashlight back on, the
>>> flashlight dims out.
>>
>> Irrelevant. Different battery, technology, materials,
>> characteristics and use. No comparison. This kind of battery
>> reaches a cutoff point and quits; period.
>> The most obvious symptom of a bad battery is that the computer
>> won't keep the system date correctly while the computer is turned
>> off. If it loses time when the computer is turned off, the battery
>> is 99% likely dead.
>>
>>> I'm thinking about putting the whole PC back together now and trying
>>> out a battery that I know works.
>>
>> Gopher it.
>>
>> Ok, this is the truth. I took out
>>> the battery and changed it with another one and I think the one I
>>> changed it with was bad. I'm not sure, but I know I did change the
>>> battery. I was trying out my battery tester and found out the right
>>> option on the tester to test 3 and 1 1/2 volt batteries. So, I'm not
>>> sure if the original battery I took out was good or bad. That's why
>>> I'm asking if it's a common problem.
>>
>> Measuring the battery with a meter isn't indicative of the battery's
>> health under load. Even a dead battery can show a healthy output
>> voltage out of its circuit. Measuring it is useless; just change it
>> out with a known good battery.
>>
>> I could be misreading you, but with a lot of the things you've done,
>> if you didn't use good static protection while you worked on the
>> computer, you could have damaged some of the cktry in the computer.
>> Thinking you did it "safely" because you never drew a static arc
>> from your fingers to anything is NOT right! Static voltages that
>> can damage today's electronic ckts can be so low that they would not
>> create visible arcs in any way. Unless you observed good static
>> procedures, you could, not did, have damaged other cktry in the
>> computer.
>>
>> Get to Safe Mode for ALL of your testing until you have a working
>> system. THEN try to get it to run in standard mode.
>>
>> HTH
>>
>> Twayne
>>
>>> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> Thanks, attilathehun1




Re: Battery failure by Twayne

Twayne
Tue Jun 10 17:03:15 PDT 2008

> attilathehun1 wrote:
>> Well, I tried to fire it up, without putting the heatsink and fan
>> back onto the CPU, and nothing happened. I smelt something like
>> burning wires for a second. Is that because I didn't have anything
>> on the CPU yet? I mean why install the heatsink and fan assembly
>> just to have to take it apart again. This PC has been a real
>> nightmare. All I can figure it's the motherboard or CPU chip that's
>> finally given out. Ok, if something I've done wrong here shoots out
>> at you. please don't feel to keep it back from telling what you
>> think is
>> wrong with the procedure. Thanks, attilathehun1
>
> Yes. The thing you did wrong was not putting the heat sink and fan
> back on. Most likley you fried the processor. It doesn't take long.
>
> gls858

That may well be an accurate statement. If the external surfaces got
too hot to touch, there is an oustanding chance that the internal
temperature went beyond safe operating specs. I don't know for sure,
but I'd imagine it could happen in three to five minutes of run time,
especially if the cpu were running hard at or near 100%.



Re: Battery failure by Twayne

Twayne
Tue Jun 10 17:05:23 PDT 2008

> "Nepatsfan" wrote in <news:umMP03zyIHA.4816@TK2MSFTNGP03.phx.gbl>:
>
>> "attilathehun1" wrote ...
>>> Would your computer stop working all of a sudden one day if the
>>> motherboard battery, the 2032 organize battery I think, stops
>>> working? The computer worked when I changed the monitor but then it
>>> stopped working shortly after that. Then it didn't matter what
>>> monitor I tried, it just wouldn't fire up. I checked everything
>>> almost, reseated the RAM, checked the power supply, tried another
>>> video card, checked the hard drive, used different parallel straps.
>>> I mean I went through all I could think of, except the motherboard
>>> battery. By accident I discovered that it wasn't working. Do you
>>> think that could be the problem? Is that a common problem of a PC
>>> going on the blink? Would it start up after a rest and then finally
>>> shut down? It seems like the battery on my flashlights get better
>>> once they aren't on, but once you turn the flashlight back on, the
>>> flashlight dims out.
>>> I'm thinking about putting the whole PC back together now and
>>> trying out a battery that I know works. Ok, this is the truth. I
>>> took out the battery and changed it with another one and I think
>>> the one I changed it with was bad. I'm not sure, but I know I did
>>> change the battery. I was trying out my battery tester and found
>>> out the right option on the tester to test 3 and 1 1/2 volt
>>> batteries. So, I'm not sure if the original battery I took out was
>>> good or bad. That's why I'm asking if it's a common problem.
>>> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> I don't see any mention of testing your power supply. Either swap it
>> out with a known good unit or get a multi-meter and start testing
>> voltages.
>
> From his other post on repeatedly prodding on every detail on how to
> install a Zalman heatsink and fan (HSF), and from his other post here
> where he admits to not attaching the HSF (and from his other post of
> not wanting to "waste" any thermal paste although he likely has a
> tube that allows 5, or more, applications), my guess is that he
> didn't bother to attach the HSF (with thermal compound) and the BIOS
> is aborting the POST because the CPU overheats beyound its configured
> default temperature threshold or he didn't connect the fan to the CPU
> header on the mobo so the BIOS sees no RPM so it aborts the POST.
>
> Considering he powered up without the HSF (with thermal paste) and
> that he smelt it burn afterwards, he probably just burnt his bridge
> and can't go back until he replaces the damaged parts (CPU and
> perhaps the mobo).

I'll second that; it could easily have beome a lost cause by now.
Shortcuts are almost never an advantage with this sort of thing. Hope
it wasn't a big investment.




Re: Battery failure by Twayne

Twayne
Tue Jun 10 17:08:30 PDT 2008

> Oh darn it, I knew I should've wrote down the settings on the BIOS.
> Isn't there a default settings on the BIOS that I can hit? So the PC
> will go back into the factory mode settings from the manufacturer.
> I've gone into BIOS alot of times but I can't remember what the
> settings were for this PC. This PC is a DIY that I built about 3
> years ago. I bought the CPU and mobo from CompUSA. It's a AMD
> processor chip Socket A EV6 bus 462 Pin ZIF and the motherboard is a
> M7VIG 400 that supports AMD processors. Any response will be gladly
> appreciated. Thanks,
> attilathehun
>
>>> Would your computer stop working all of a sudden one day if the
>>> motherboard battery, the 2032 organize battery I think, stops
>>> working?
>>
>> Yes, that's quite possible. It would depend on a few things, but
>> it's definitely possible the CMOS settings were lost.
>> Boot to the System Settings/CMOS Settings/BIOS settings, whatever
>> it's called on your machine, and write down each setting in case you
>> have to put them back.
>> Then, there will be a "load default" choice somewhere; click that
>> then save and exit and continue the boot.
>>
>> The computer worked when I changed the monitor but then it
>>> stopped working shortly after that.
>>
>> But that doesn't sound like a monitor problem.
>>
>> Then it didn't matter what
>>> monitor I tried, it just wouldn't fire up.
>>
>> Did you try it from Safe Mode? That uses a standard driver that
>> should work with any monitor, just maybe not a very good looking
>> screen, but it will work if there is nothing wrong elsewhere.
>>
>> I checked everything
>>> almost, reseated the RAM, checked the power supply, tried another
>>> video card, checked the hard drive, used different parallel straps.
>>
>> Parallel straps? What the heck do you mean?
>>
>> I
>>> mean I went through all I could think of, except the motherboard
>>> battery. By accident I discovered that it wasn't working.
>>
>> What äccident" was that? See above: or try starting in Safe Mode.
>>
>> Do you
>>> think that could be the problem?
>>
>> Possible, not likely, IMO.
>>
>> Is that a common problem of a PC
>>> going on the blink?
>>
>> Not the way you describe it, but it could be possible. Just not
>> likely IMO. Can't hurt to try a known good battery though.
>>
>> Would it start up after a rest and then finally
>>> shut down?
>>
>> Who knows? Try it and see.
>>
>> It seems like the battery on my flashlights get better
>>> once they aren't on, but once you turn the flashlight back on, the
>>> flashlight dims out.
>>
>> Irrelevant. Different battery, technology, materials,
>> characteristics and use. No comparison. This kind of battery
>> reaches a cutoff point and quits; period.
>> The most obvious symptom of a bad battery is that the computer
>> won't keep the system date correctly while the computer is turned
>> off. If it loses time when the computer is turned off, the battery
>> is 99% likely dead.
>>
>>> I'm thinking about putting the whole PC back together now and trying
>>> out a battery that I know works.
>>
>> Gopher it.
>>
>> Ok, this is the truth. I took out
>>> the battery and changed it with another one and I think the one I
>>> changed it with was bad. I'm not sure, but I know I did change the
>>> battery. I was trying out my battery tester and found out the right
>>> option on the tester to test 3 and 1 1/2 volt batteries. So, I'm not
>>> sure if the original battery I took out was good or bad. That's why
>>> I'm asking if it's a common problem.
>>
>> Measuring the battery with a meter isn't indicative of the battery's
>> health under load. Even a dead battery can show a healthy output
>> voltage out of its circuit. Measuring it is useless; just change it
>> out with a known good battery.
>>
>> I could be misreading you, but with a lot of the things you've done,
>> if you didn't use good static protection while you worked on the
>> computer, you could have damaged some of the cktry in the computer.
>> Thinking you did it "safely" because you never drew a static arc
>> from your fingers to anything is NOT right! Static voltages that
>> can damage today's electronic ckts can be so low that they would not
>> create visible arcs in any way. Unless you observed good static
>> procedures, you could, not did, have damaged other cktry in the
>> computer.
>>
>> Get to Safe Mode for ALL of your testing until you have a working
>> system. THEN try to get it to run in standard mode.
>>
>> HTH
>>
>> Twayne
>>
>>> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> Thanks, attilathehun1

Just thinking: depending on what your investment is and whether you care
enough, it's probably time to let some trained professionals give you an
esimate on a repair job. Within a few minutes they'll be able to tell
you whether it's worth pursuing further or not. By pursuing, I mean
them, now you; they have all the right equipment and environment to do
that kind of work. IMO you're at way too much of a disadvantage to go
any further and probably should have stopped about the point where you
decided to change the battery.

With so many unknowns IMO it's nearly impossible and certainly unlikely
anyone here can help you by now.

regards,



Re: Battery failure by w_tom

w_tom
Wed Jun 11 05:39:29 PDT 2008

On Jun 10, 3:59 pm, attilathehun1
<attilatheh...@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote:
> Well, I tried to fire it up, without putting the heatsink and fan back onto
> the CPU, and nothing happened. I smelt something like burning wires for a
> second. Is that because I didn't have anything on the CPU yet? I mean why
> install the heatsink and fan assembly just to have to take it apart again.
> This PC has been a real nightmare. All I can figure it's the motherboard or
> CPU chip that's finally given out.

Powering up an AMD processor (not true of an Intel) without a
heatsink could be destructive. How hot was the CPU after a burning
smell?

Currently, suspects include most everything in that list of 'checked
everything' including power supply, RAM, video card, etc.
Previously, you said a multimeter is available. Without removing the
battery, measure that battery voltage. If battery is a CR2032 type,
then voltages above 2.8 volts are sufficient. About 2.8 volts
suggests replacing the battery in some future month. Well below 2.8
volts says the battery needs replacement now.

Battery may need replacement, but not correct reason for failure.
For example, power supply could have always been defective (even when
computer boots and runs fine). Again, only useful answer comes from
that multimeter. When powered on, multimeter measures voltage on any
one of purple, red, orange, and yellow wires. Again, measurements made
without removing or disconnecting anything. Then report those numbers
here to gain a useful conclusion.

That confirms battery and power supply. Once verified as
'definitively good', then move on to other suspects.

Re: Battery failure by attilathehun1

attilathehun1
Wed Jun 11 10:17:01 PDT 2008

It didn't even fire up. The fan didn't start spinning, not the heatsink fan,
the tower fan. Nothing came on the monitor, the LED stayed yellow, and no it
didn't even come on. I could see if I had it running for a minute or so and
then smelled something burning. I tried to fire it up and smelled something
like wires. Ok, maybe I did fry the CPU chip, if the CPU chip will fry in 10
seconds without the monitor going green and without the case fan starting up.
Ok, if that is possible, it doesn't matter anyways, because I think it's the
CPU chip anyways, or the motherboard. I've gone through everything else.
Now that you've told me about putting the heatsink on and not even trying
to start it up without it, I'm screwed at the moment. This new motherboard I
bought from newegg. com for $50 bucks, because of the free 512 ramstick that
was included, doesn't have a heatsink and fan with it. I have to buy one.
Unless I take off the plastic that is wrapped around the CPU, and then maybe
one of these heatsink fan assemblys I have sitting here will work. The
motherboard got bad reviews from people on neweggs website. It's an
Elitegroup model GF6100-M754 e-machine mobo/CPU combo. The only like I said
is it doesn't have a heatsink and fan assembly included.
What's more likely to give out, the CPU chip or the motherboard? I'm
thinking the motherboard.
Any more help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1


"gls858" wrote:

> attilathehun1 wrote:
> > Well, I tried to fire it up, without putting the heatsink and fan back onto
> > the CPU, and nothing happened. I smelt something like burning wires for a
> > second. Is that because I didn't have anything on the CPU yet? I mean why
> > install the heatsink and fan assembly just to have to take it apart again.
> > This PC has been a real nightmare. All I can figure it's the motherboard or
> > CPU chip that's finally given out.
> > Ok, if something I've done wrong here shoots out at you. please don't feel
> > to keep it back from telling what you think is wrong with the procedure.
> > Thanks,
> > attilathehun1
>
> Yes. The thing you did wrong was not putting the heat sink and fan back
> on. Most likley you fried the processor. It doesn't take long.
>
> gls858
>

Re: Battery failure by attilathehun1

attilathehun1
Wed Jun 11 10:47:02 PDT 2008

Ok, the readings on the 3 volt 2032 organizer battery, well motherboard
battery, I just am used to calling them organizer batteries, is 2.869. Now,
as far as reading the power supply with is turned on. Right now, unless I go
throught the procedure to start a power supply by sticking a paperclip
shorting it out, I'm out of luck. I've told you it doesn't fire up. I know, I
can start up the power supply, another hassle. I do have 3 new power supplies
sitting here, still wrapped in the plastic it came from the manufacturer. I
did try this power supply on another PC. In fact I tried another power
supply, that I knew worked, on the PC already and it didn't fire up.
And again, as far as burning up the CPU chip when I smelled something
burning, if the CPU can burn up in 20 seconds then ok, it' burned up. The
case fan didn't start spinning, the hard drive didn't start spinning, the
monitor LED stayed yellow. I don't know.
This has just been a nightmare and waste of time.
And yes I did install the Zalman CNPS9700 LED cooler about 3 times on and
off. So, the only thing I have to do now with that is install the cooler fan
controller, the black plastic piece. Right now, the cooler is sitting back in
it's original plastic package and I'm fooling with this DIY 3 year old PC. I
should be building or overhauling my Dell 8300. I have everything new except
the hard drive and optical drive. In fact I'm going to use a new dvd drive or
no I'll use the same setup I have now. I have the master optical as a burner
and the slave used for my gaming. The master is one of the new type of feeds
where you just insert the CD disk and then it automatically inserts. No
pushing the button and waiting for the tray to come out. There is no tray on
this optical drive.
Ok, lets give it one more shot. I'm thinking about installing the lemon I
got from newegg. The e-machine mobo/CPU combo. I'm going to have to do some
tinkering with the plastic plate that surrounds the CPU. I don't have
anything, except maybe the Zalman, that will fit on it as it is now.
Any more help will be appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1


"Twayne" wrote:

> > "Nepatsfan" wrote in <news:umMP03zyIHA.4816@TK2MSFTNGP03.phx.gbl>:
> >
> >> "attilathehun1" wrote ...
> >>> Would your computer stop working all of a sudden one day if the
> >>> motherboard battery, the 2032 organize battery I think, stops
> >>> working? The computer worked when I changed the monitor but then it
> >>> stopped working shortly after that. Then it didn't matter what
> >>> monitor I tried, it just wouldn't fire up. I checked everything
> >>> almost, reseated the RAM, checked the power supply, tried another
> >>> video card, checked the hard drive, used different parallel straps.
> >>> I mean I went through all I could think of, except the motherboard
> >>> battery. By accident I discovered that it wasn't working. Do you
> >>> think that could be the problem? Is that a common problem of a PC
> >>> going on the blink? Would it start up after a rest and then finally
> >>> shut down? It seems like the battery on my flashlights get better
> >>> once they aren't on, but once you turn the flashlight back on, the
> >>> flashlight dims out.
> >>> I'm thinking about putting the whole PC back together now and
> >>> trying out a battery that I know works. Ok, this is the truth. I
> >>> took out the battery and changed it with another one and I think
> >>> the one I changed it with was bad. I'm not sure, but I know I did
> >>> change the battery. I was trying out my battery tester and found
> >>> out the right option on the tester to test 3 and 1 1/2 volt
> >>> batteries. So, I'm not sure if the original battery I took out was
> >>> good or bad. That's why I'm asking if it's a common problem.
> >>> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> >>
> >> I don't see any mention of testing your power supply. Either swap it
> >> out with a known good unit or get a multi-meter and start testing
> >> voltages.
> >
> > From his other post on repeatedly prodding on every detail on how to
> > install a Zalman heatsink and fan (HSF), and from his other post here
> > where he admits to not attaching the HSF (and from his other post of
> > not wanting to "waste" any thermal paste although he likely has a
> > tube that allows 5, or more, applications), my guess is that he
> > didn't bother to attach the HSF (with thermal compound) and the BIOS
> > is aborting the POST because the CPU overheats beyound its configured
> > default temperature threshold or he didn't connect the fan to the CPU
> > header on the mobo so the BIOS sees no RPM so it aborts the POST.
> >
> > Considering he powered up without the HSF (with thermal paste) and
> > that he smelt it burn afterwards, he probably just burnt his bridge
> > and can't go back until he replaces the damaged parts (CPU and
> > perhaps the mobo).
>
> I'll second that; it could easily have beome a lost cause by now.
> Shortcuts are almost never an advantage with this sort of thing. Hope
> it wasn't a big investment.
>
>
>
>

RE: Battery failure by attilathehun1

attilathehun1
Wed Jun 11 12:29:16 PDT 2008

Ok finally, I fired it up and presto! It works now and the monitor came up
green on the LED light. I turned it off immediately thanks to your comments,
so, no I didn't burn up the CPU chip. The device I smelled burning, don't
laugh, was the fan. I accidently plugged the fan molex connector into the
hard drive. I was just about to take off the mobo again and had just taken
the last mobo screws out and discovered it. Now, I need to install the
heatsink and fan assembly to the CPU. I have arctic silver that hasn't been
opened yet that's been sitting in my desk draw for 2 years or I have the
thermal paste that I've used once, that came with the Zalman cooler. Which
would you use? Now the area on the CPU chip is a small square about 1/4 inch
by 1/4 inch. Is that all the area I have to apply the compound? The other
motherboard I just bought has a area about 1 inch by 1 inch.
Ok, I'll wait for your response.
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1


"attilathehun1" wrote:

> Would your computer stop working all of a sudden one day if the motherboard
> battery, the 2032 organize battery I think, stops working? The computer
> worked when I changed the monitor but then it stopped working shortly after
> that. Then it didn't matter what monitor I tried, it just wouldn't fire up. I
> checked everything almost, reseated the RAM, checked the power supply, tried
> another video card, checked the hard drive, used different parallel straps. I
> mean I went through all I could think of, except the motherboard battery. By
> accident I discovered that it wasn't working. Do you think that could be the
> problem? Is that a common problem of a PC going on the blink? Would it start
> up after a rest and then finally shut down? It seems like the battery on my
> flashlights get better once they aren't on, but once you turn the flashlight
> back on, the flashlight dims out.
> I'm thinking about putting the whole PC back together now and trying out a
> battery that I know works. Ok, this is the truth. I took out the battery and
> changed it with another one and I think the one I changed it with was bad.
> I'm not sure, but I know I did change the battery. I was trying out my
> battery tester and found out the right option on the tester to test 3 and 1
> 1/2 volt batteries. So, I'm not sure if the original battery I took out was
> good or bad. That's why I'm asking if it's a common problem.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> --
> attilathehun1

RE: Battery failure by attilathehun1

attilathehun1
Wed Jun 11 13:15:00 PDT 2008

OK, the problem now I think has to do with the CMOS. I changed the 3 volt
battery and now isn't there a jumper on the motherboard that I can do
something with to correct the problem? Or should I go into safe mode and run
it that way or should I go into BIOS and configure something?
Any help here will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
attilathehun1


"attilathehun1" wrote:

> Would your computer stop working all of a sudden one day if the motherboard
> battery, the 2032 organize battery I think, stops working? The computer
> worked when I changed the monitor but then it stopped working shortly after
> that. Then it didn't matter what monitor I tried, it just wouldn't fire up. I
> checked everything almost, reseated the RAM, checked the power supply, tried
> another video card, checked the hard drive, used different parallel straps. I
> mean I went through all I could think of, except the motherboard battery. By
> accident I discovered that it wasn't working. Do you think that could be the
> problem? Is that a common problem of a PC going on the blink? Would it start
> up after a rest and then finally shut down? It seems like the battery on my
> flashlights get better once they aren't on, but once you turn the flashlight
> back on, the flashlight dims out.
> I'm thinking about putting the whole PC back together now and trying out a
> battery that I know works. Ok, this is the truth. I took out the battery and
> changed it with another one and I think the one I changed it with was bad.
> I'm not sure, but I know I did change the battery. I was trying out my
> battery tester and found out the right option on the tester to test 3 and 1
> 1/2 volt batteries. So, I'm not sure if the original battery I took out was
> good or bad. That's why I'm asking if it's a common problem.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks, attilathehun1
> --
> attilathehun1

Re: Battery failure by w_tom

w_tom
Wed Jun 11 14:34:41 PDT 2008

On Jun 11, 4:15 pm, attilathehun1
<attilatheh...@discussions.microsoft.com> wrote:
> OK, the problem now I think has to do with the CMOS. I changed the 3 volt
> battery and now isn't there a jumper on the motherboard that I can do
> something with to correct the problem? Or should I go into safe mode and run
> it that way or should I go into BIOS and configure something?
> Any help here will be greatly appreciated.

To answer many questions. Which is more likely to fail?
Motherboard. CPUs are so robust. But this assumes the system has
been working. With so much human intervention, then everything is
equally likely to fail (because humans are so inventive).

That greater than 2.8 volts battery voltage (measured by a
multimeter) suggests battery should have been sufficient (not a reason
for failure) AND that battery was ready for replacement. Battery
replaced. Move on to other suspects.

Procedure to test purple, red, orange, and yellow wires with a meter
needs no paper clip. Measure each voltage before and when power on
button is pressed. Irrelevant is how the system responds. Only
relevant are numbers for each wire before and when power on button is
pressed. Post those numbers here to obtain a suspect - a definitive
answer. In your case, purple wire voltage would have always been
there, but other wires never reported any voltage - if failure was in
a 'power supply controller'.

A good power supply can fail in one system (not relevant in your
case). A defective power supply can still boot a computer (this is
relevant). Since a system has booted, measure those same four wires
as the system accesses (multitasks to) all peripherals
simultaneously. Numbers must exceed 3.23, 4.87, and 11.7. If less,
then power supply is still defective even though it boots that
computer.

These numbers can also be used to calibrate a voltage monitor
located on motherboard. Motherboard manufacturer can provide that
program to monitor power supply voltages while Windows executes. But
that motherboard voltage monitor hardware should be calibrated with
the multimeter; set thresholds accordingly.

Moving on. Thermal paste is not necessary for any properly machined
heatsink. When that thermal past is applied, CPU temperature should
only decrease by single digit degrees. If thermal paste results in
much lower temperatures, then either the heatsink is not properly
mounted, or that heatsink is manufactured defective.

Which thermal compound? Virtually no difference exists between an
overhyped and overpriced Arctic Silver verses other thermal compounds.

Apply so little thermal compound that, when heatsink is pressed on,
then compound does not spread outside CPU edge. Thermal compound
should be applied so sparingly that most of a heatsink contacts most
of the CPU directly. That is the most ideal thermal interface.
Thermal compound is only for those few areas where a heatsink fails to
contact CPU directly. No thermal compound should ever squeeze outside
the CPU / heatsink interface. Most important location for thermal
compound is at CPU's center. Almost all heat transfers from CPU to
heatsink at the center.

Generally, a BIOS reads and then sets itself accordingly. If system
boots in safe mode, then execute Windows diagnostics and other
utilities (CHKDSK, Disk Manager, system (event) viewer, Device
Manager, etc) to confirm software system integrity (not to be confused
with hardware integrity).

If BIOS does not see and boot the OS, then this is why responsible
computer manufacturers (ie Dell) provide comprehensive hardware
diagnostics. Those diagnostics are found in a diagnostic partition on
a hard drive, on a provided CD, and available from their web site.
Less responsible manufacturer means downloading individual diagnostics
from each component manufacturer. A hardware diagnostic executes on
its own - does not load or require complications from Windows.

If hardware does verify, then Windows provides an optional boot
procedure so that bootcfg.exe, fixboot.exe, and fixmbr.exe can repair
or restore Windows' programs that would normally boot Windows. If
these programs are necessary, then a BIOS message on screen reported
that the Operating System could not be located - meaning those 3
programs might fix Windows booting code on the hard drive.

Re: Battery failure by VanguardLH

VanguardLH
Wed Jun 11 23:09:18 PDT 2008

"attilathehun1" wrote in
<news:8E452B54-2223-4A32-AF06-1EEF0F23630D@microsoft.com>:

> Ok, the readings on the 3 volt 2032 organizer battery, well motherboard
> battery, I just am used to calling them organizer batteries, is 2.869. Now,
> as far as reading the power supply with is turned on. Right now, unless I go
> throught the procedure to start a power supply by sticking a paperclip
> shorting it out, I'm out of luck. I've told you it doesn't fire up. I know, I
> can start up the power supply, another hassle. I do have 3 new power supplies
> sitting here, still wrapped in the plastic it came from the manufacturer. I
> did try this power supply on another PC. In fact I tried another power
> supply, that I knew worked, on the PC already and it didn't fire up.
> And again, as far as burning up the CPU chip when I smelled something
> burning, if the CPU can burn up in 20 seconds then ok, it' burned up. The
> case fan didn't start spinning, the hard drive didn't start spinning, the
> monitor LED stayed yellow. I don't know.
> This has just been a nightmare and waste of time.
> And yes I did install the Zalman CNPS9700 LED cooler about 3 times on and
> off. So, the only thing I have to do now with that is install the cooler fan
> controller, the black plastic piece. Right now, the cooler is sitting back in
> it's original plastic package and I'm fooling with this DIY 3 year old PC. I
> should be building or overhauling my Dell 8300. I have everything new except
> the hard drive and optical drive. In fact I'm going to use a new dvd drive or
> no I'll use the same setup I have now. I have the master optical as a burner
> and the slave used for my gaming. The master is one of the new type of feeds
> where you just insert the CD disk and then it automatically inserts. No
> pushing the button and waiting for the tray to come out. There is no tray on
> this optical drive.
> Ok, lets give it one more shot. I'm thinking about installing the lemon I
> got from newegg. The e-machine mobo/CPU combo. I'm going to have to do some
> tinkering with the plastic plate that surrounds the CPU. I don't have
> anything, except maybe the Zalman, that will fit on it as it is now.
> Any more help will be appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1

Please review your message before posting. It is more important that
someone ELSE be able to understand what you are attempting to say.
Assuming my interpretation is correct of what you tried to write:

You still haven't bothered to go to the store to buy a NEW battery.

Re: Battery failure by VanguardLH

VanguardLH
Wed Jun 11 23:19:31 PDT 2008

"attilathehun1" wrote in
<news:D398C5DB-7F3D-4E89-ADF3-5C7A04857199@microsoft.com>:

> Ok finally, I fired it up and presto! It works now and the monitor came up
> green on the LED light. I turned it off immediately thanks to your comments,
> so, no I didn't burn up the CPU chip. The device I smelled burning, don't
> laugh, was the fan. I accidently plugged the fan molex connector into the
> hard drive.

But that would mean that both the fan and hard drive had no power. You
plugged the fan into the hard drive. So where would either get power
since you used the power connector on both to connect them together?

The CPU fan came with a Molex connector? I would've thought that it
would've been a much smaller 3- or 4-pin connector to match up with the
headers on the motherboard.

> I was just about to take off the mobo again and had just taken
> the last mobo screws out and discovered it. Now, I need to install the
> heatsink and fan assembly to the CPU. I have arctic silver that hasn't been
> opened yet that's been sitting in my desk draw for 2 years or I have the
> thermal paste that I've used once, that came with the Zalman cooler. Which
> would you use?

For a newbie, the thermal paste. Apply it in a thin layer that looks
transparent. You want it to fill the microscopic pores of the metal
surfaces, not to fill a gap between them. Metal-to-metal provides
fastest heat transfer. Metal-to-paste-to-metal is not nearly as
effective for heat transfer so you want the paste only where there is no
metal-to-metal contact. You don't want the paste gooped up between the
mating surfaces that would reduce the metal-to-metal contact.

For someone more experienced, I'd suggest the Artic Silver. However,
that compound is electricially conductive. If you apply too much and it
squeezes out to get onto other components, it probably won't short like
a wire (it's not that conductive) but it could act like a resistor
across a components leads or foil on the mobo. There are non-conductive
formulations from Artic so I don't know if your "Artic Silver" is a
generic term for all compounds available from Artic.

> Now the area on the CPU chip is a small square about 1/4 inch
> by 1/4 inch. Is that all the area I have to apply the compound? The other
> motherboard I just bought has a area about 1 inch by 1 inch.

Apply the thermal paste to one surface only, not to both. Apply it to
the heatsink or to the CPU but not both. Obviously it would be easier
to spread on the CPU because you can see the size of that mating
surface. If you apply it to the heatsink, you would have to guess at
about where on it the CPU mates against it.

Re: Battery failure by VanguardLH

VanguardLH
Wed Jun 11 23:23:52 PDT 2008

"attilathehun1" wrote in
<news:B3A3B66E-AE37-4073-AB42-B8F5119AB6BB@microsoft.com>:

> OK, the problem now I think has to do with the CMOS. I changed the 3 volt
> battery and now isn't there a jumper on the motherboard that I can do
> something with to correct the problem? Or should I go into safe mode and run
> it that way or should I go into BIOS and configure something?
> Any help here will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, attilathehun1

The manual will tell or show you where on the motherboard is the 2-pin
CMOS header pins across which you short (using a jumper) to clear the
CMOS table copy of the BIOS settings. While you might expect the 2-pin
header to be near the battery, that isn't always true. I've seen mobos
with the battery at the lower right of the mobo (as viewed when looking
into the side panel with the case upright) and the 2-pin header at the
backside about halfway up. There may even be a silkscreened label on
the mobo that identifies the "Clear CMOS" header.

With the computer powered down AND its power cord yanked from the back,
short the pins for a minute. Remove the jumper and reboot. The CMOS
table will repopulate with the default BIOS settings. If you made any
customization to the BIOS settings, you'll have to do them again.

Re: Battery failure by Twayne

Twayne
Thu Jun 12 16:31:33 PDT 2008

> "attilathehun1" wrote in
> <news:B3A3B66E-AE37-4073-AB42-B8F5119AB6BB@microsoft.com>:
>
>> OK, the problem now I think has to do with the CMOS. I changed the
>> 3 volt battery and now isn't there a jumper on the motherboard that
>> I can do something with to correct the problem? Or should I go into
>> safe mode and run it that way or should I go into BIOS and configure
>> something? Any help here will be greatly appreciated.
>> Thanks,
>> attilathehun1
>
> The manual will tell or show you where on the motherboard is the 2-pin
> CMOS header pins across which you short (using a jumper) to clear the
> CMOS table copy of the BIOS settings. While you might expect the
> 2-pin header to be near the battery, that isn't always true. I've
> seen mobos with the battery at the lower right of the mobo (as viewed
> when looking into the side panel with the case upright) and the 2-pin
> header at the backside about halfway up. There may even be a
> silkscreened label on the mobo that identifies the "Clear CMOS"
> header.
>
> With the computer powered down AND its power cord yanked from the
> back, short the pins for a minute. Remove the jumper and reboot.
> The CMOS table will repopulate with the default BIOS settings. If
> you made any customization to the BIOS settings, you'll have to do
> them again.

Refreshing to see such a clear, concise mind, VanG; keep up the good
work! Posters with your communications and people abilities are getting
rare and it's great to see your capabilities at work.

Twayne